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How to Build a Simple Egg Incubator Thermostat Circuit

Last Updated on July 26, 2026 by Swagatam 212 Comments

An electronic incubator thermostat circuit shown in this article is not only simple to build but is also easy to set and acquire exact tripping points at various different set temperature levels. The setting may be completed through two discrete variable resistors.

Table of Contents
  • How Incubators Work
  • Sensing Range
  • Drawbacks of Electromechanical Thermostats
  • Incubator Thermostat using IC LM35 Temperature Sensor
    • How This Circuit Works
    • Fixing the Voltage (7812 IC)
    • Setting the Target Temperature (10K Preset)
    • Reading the Heat (LM35 and 10uF Cap)
    • How the Chip Decides (LM393)
    • The Indicator and Protection Diode
  • Upgrading into a Solar Powered Incubator Circuit
  • A Simpler Design using Diode and Transistor as the Sensor
    • Parts List
  • Circuit Operation
    • How to Make an LED/LDR Opto-Coupler?
    • Adding a Hysteresis to the above Incubator Circuit
    • Technical Specifications
    • The Design
      • Parts List
    • Incubator Temperature Controller Thermostat with LED Indicator

How Incubators Work

An Incubator is a system where bird/reptile eggs are hatched through artificial methods by creating a temperature controlled environment.

Here the temperature is precisely optimized to match the natural incubating temperature level of eggs, which becomes the most crucial part of the whole system.

The advantage of artificial incubation is faster and healthier production of the chicks compared to the natural process.

Sensing Range

The sensing range is quite good from 0 to 110 degrees Celsius. Switching a particular load at different threshold temperature levels doesn’t necessarily need complex configurations to be involved in an electronic circuit.

Here I have explained a simple construction procedure of an electronic incubator thermostat. This simple electronic incubator thermostat will very faithfully sense and activate the output relay at different set temperature levels from 0 to 110 degree Celsius.

Drawbacks of Electromechanical Thermostats

The conventional electromechanical temperature sensors or thermostats are not very efficient due to the simple reason that they cannot be optimized with accurate trip points.

Normally these types of temperature sensor or thermostats fundamentally use the ubiquitous bimetal strip for the actual tripping operations.

When the temperature to be sensed reaches the threshold point of this metal, it bends and buckles.

Since the electricity to the heating device passes through this metal, it’s buckling causes the contact to break and thus power to the heating element is interrupted - the heater is switched off and the temperature starts falling.

As the temperature cools, the bimetal starts straightening to its original form. The moment it reaches its previous shape, the electricity supply to the heater is restored through its contacts and the cycle repeats.

However, the transition points between the switching are too long and not consistent and therefore not reliable for accurate operations.

The simple incubator circuit presented here is absolutely free from these drawbacks and will produce comparatively high degree of accuracy as far the upper and the lower tripping operations are concerned.

Incubator Thermostat using IC LM35 Temperature Sensor

How This Circuit Works

This circuit uses a 15V DC power source and a temperature sensor to automatically turn an incubator light bulb on and off.

Fixing the Voltage (7812 IC)

A DC power source supplies raw voltage at around 15V DC. The 7812 regulator IC takes this voltage and locks it down to a smooth 12V DC so the rest of the parts stay safe.

Setting the Target Temperature (10K Preset)

You use the 10K preset preset to pick your cutoff temperature. Adjusting it sends a set reference voltage to pin 3 of the LM393 chip. If you want the incubator at 37.5°C, you just turn this preset until pin 3 reads about 0.375V.

Reading the Heat (LM35 and 10uF Cap)

The LM35 sensor is installed inside the box and it reads the heat, giving out 10mV for every 1°C increase. That signal goes straight to pin 2 of the LM393. A 10uF cap is connected between pin 2 and Ground to smooth out noise so the sensor doesn't jump around.

How the Chip Decides (LM393)

The LM393 chip constantly compares the sensor voltage on pin 2 against the preset voltage on pin 3. When the egg box gets colder, pin 3 is higher than pin 2, so pin 1 goes HIGH. When the egg box gets too hot, pin 2 goes higher than pin 3, and pin 1 drops LOW to Ground.

When pin 1 goes HIGH, it feeds current to the BC547 transistor and turns it on. The transistor grounds the relay coil, triggering the 12V relay. The relay contacts gets closed and sends power to the heater bulb to warm up the eggs.

This ON, OFF cycle goes on continuously, ensuring the eggs are maintained at the correct incubating temperature.

The Indicator and Protection Diode

The red LED with its 2.2k resistor lights up whenever the relay coil gets power, letting you see that the heater is running. The 1N4007 diode wired across the relay coil absorbs high voltage kicks when the relay switches off, keeping the BC547 transistor from blowing up.

Upgrading into a Solar Powered Incubator Circuit

The above explained simple yet accurate LM393 and LM35 IC based incubator circuit can be further upgraded to work with a solar panel, as shown below:

The solar panel used here can be a standard 20V, 20 watt solar panel. Any other version, slightly up or down, will be also acceptable...

A Simpler Design using Diode and Transistor as the Sensor

Egg Incubator Thermostat using BC547 transistor as heat sensor

Parts List

  • R1 = 2k7,
  • R2, R5, R6 = 1K
  • R3, R4 = 10K,
  • D1---D4 = 1N4007,
  • D5, D6 = 1N4148,
  • P1 = 100K,
  • VR1 = 200 Ohms, 1Watt,
  • C1 = 1000uF/25V,
  • T1 = BC547,
  • T2 = BC557,IC = 741,
  • OPTO = LED/LDR Combo.
  • Relay = 12 V, 400 Ohm, SPDT.

Circuit Operation

We know that every semiconductor electronic component changes its electrical conductivity in response to the varying ambient temperature.

This property is exploited here to make the circuit work as a temperature sensor and controller.

Diode D5 and transistor T1 together form a differential temperature sensor and interact greatly with each other with changes in the respective surrounding temperature.

Also since D5 acts as the reference source by staying at the ambient temperature level should be kept as far as possible from T1 and in open air.

Pot VR1 may be used externally to optimize the reference level set naturally by D5.

Now assuming D5 is at a relatively fixed temperature level (ambient), if the temperature in question around T1 starts rising, after a particular threshold level as set by VR1, T1 will begin to saturate and gradually start conducting.

Once it reaches the forward voltage drop of the LED inside the opto-coupler, it will start glowing correspondingly brighter as the above temperature rises.

Interestingly as the LED light reaches a particular level, further set by P1, IC1 picks this up and instantly switches its output.

T2 along with relay also respond to the IC’s command and respectively actuate to trip off the load or the heat source in question.

How to Make an LED/LDR Opto-Coupler?

LED LDR optocoupler circuit design

Making a homemade LED/LDR opto is actually very simple. Cut a piece of general purpose board about 1 by 1 inch.

Bend the LDR leads near its “head.” Also take a green RED LED, bend it just as the LDR (See figure and Click to Enlarge).

Insert them over the PCB so that the LED lens point is touching the LDR sensing surface and are face to face.

Solder their leads at the track side of the PCB; do not cut off the remaining excess lead portion.
Cover the top with an opaque lid and make sure its light proof. Preferably seal off the edges with some opaque sealing glue.

Let it dry. Your home made LED/LDR based opto-coupler is ready and may be fixed over the main circuit board with its leads orientations done as per the electronic incubator thermostat circuit schematic.

Update:

After some careful investigation it became evident that the above opto-coupler can be totally avoided from the proposed incubator controller circuit.

Here are the modifications which needs to be made after eliminating the opto.

R2 now directly connects with the collector of T1.

The junction of pin#2 of IC1 and P1 hooks up with the above R2/T1 junction.

That's it, the simpler version is now all ready, much improved and easier to handle.

Please check-out the much simplified version of the above circuit:

opamp incubator control with hysteresis

Adding a Hysteresis to the above Incubator Circuit

The following paragraphs describes a simple yet accurate adjustable incubator temperature controller circuit which has a special hysteresis control feature.

The idea was requested by Dodz, let's know more.

Technical Specifications

Actually, I have a little request to make and I hope this does not burden you that much. I have been researching on analog thermostat for my homemade incubator.

I learned that there are probably dozen of ways of doing it using different sensors such as thermistors, bi-metallic strip, transistors, diodes, and so on.

I want to build one using either of these methods but I find the diode method as the best one for me because of the availability of the components.

However I could not find diagrams that I am comfortable experimenting with.

The present circuit is good but could not follow much regarding setting the high and low temp levels and adjusting the hysteresis.

My point is I want to make thermostat with sensor that is diode-based with adjustable hysteresis for a homemade incubator.

This project is for personal use and for our local farmers that venture into duck and poultry hatching.

I am an agriculturist by profession by I studied (vocational very basic course) electronics as a hobby. I can read diagrams and some components but not very much.

I hope you can make me this circuit. Lastly, I hope you can make simpler explanations especially on setting the temperature thresholds and the hysteresis.

Thank you very much and more more power to you.

The Design

In one of my previous posts I have already discussed an interesting yet very simple incubator thermostat circuit which uses an inexpensive transistor BC 547 for detecting and maintaining the incubation temperature.

The circuit includes another sensor in the form of a 1N4148 diode, however this device is used for generating the reference level for the BC547 sensor.

The 1N4148 diode senses the ambient atmospheric temperature and accordingly "informs" the BC547 sensor to adjust the thresholds appropriately.

Thus during winter, the threshold would be shifted on the higher side such that incubator stays warmer than during summer seasons.

Everything seems to be perfect in the circuit except one issue, that is the hysteresis factor which is completely missing there.

Without an effective hysteresis the circuit would respond fast making the heater lamp switch at rapid frequencies at the threshold levels.

Moreover adding a hysteresis control feature would allow the user to manually set the average temperature of the compartment as per individual preferences.

The following diagram shows the modified design of the previous circuit, here as we can see, a resistor and a pot has been introduced across pin#2 and pin#6 of the IC.

The pot VR2 can be used for adjusting the OFF time of the relay as per the desired preferences.

The addition almost makes the circuit a perfect incubator design.

adjusting the OFF time of the relay

Parts List

  • R1 = 2k7,
  • R2, R5, R6 = 1K
  • R3, R4, R7 = 10K,
  • D1---D4 = 1N4007,
  • D5, D6 = 1N4148,
  • P1 = 100K,VR1 = 200 Ohms, 1Watt,
  • VR2 = 100k pot
  • C1 = 1000uF/25V,
  • T1 = BC547,
  • T2 = BC557,IC = 741,
  • OPTO = LED/LDR Combo.
  • Relay = 12 V, 400 Ohm, SPDT.

Incubator Temperature Controller Thermostat with LED Indicator

In the next design we see another cool incubator temperature controller thermostat circuit using an LED driver IC LM3915

egg incubator with LED temperature indicator

In this design the IC LM3915 is configured as a temperature indicator through 10 sequential LEDs and also the same pinouts are used for initiating the ON/OFF switching of the incubator heater device for the intended incubator temperature control.

Here R2 is installed in the form of a pot and it constitutes the threshold level adjustment control knob and is used for setting up the temperature switching operations as per the desired specifications.

The temperature sensor IC LM35 can seen attached to the input pin#5 of the IC LM3915. With rise in temperature around the IC LM35 the LEDs begin sequencing from pin#1 towards pin#10.

Let's assume, at room temperature the LED#1 illuminates and at the higher cut-off temperature the LED#15 illuminates as the sequence progresses.

It implies that pin#15 may be considered the threshold pinout after which the temperature could be unsafe for the incubation.

The relay cut-off integration is implemented according to the above consideration and we can see that the base of the transistor is able to get its biasing feed only upto pin#15.

Therefore as long as the IC sequence is within pin#15, the relay remains triggered and the heater device is held switched ON.

However, as soon as the sequence crosses over pin#15 and lands on pin#14, pin#13 etc. the transistor biasing feed is cut off and the relay is reverted towards the N/C position, subsequently switching OFF the heater..... until temperature normalizes and the sequence restores back below the pin#15 pinout.

The above sequential up/down drift keeps on repeating in accordance with the surrounding temperature and the heater element is switched ON/OFF maintaining almost a constant incubator temperature as per the given specifications.

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Filed Under: Temperature Controllers Tagged With: Build, Incubator, Simple, Thermostat

About Swagatam

I am an electronics engineer and doing practical hands-on work from more than 15 years now. Building real circuits, testing them and also making PCB layouts by myself. I really love doing all these things like inventing something new, designing electronics and also helping other people like hobby guys who want to make their own cool circuits at home.

And that is the main reason why I started this website homemade-circuits.com, to share different types of circuit ideas..

If you are having any kind of doubt or question related to circuits then just write down your question in the comment box below, I am like always checking, so I guarantee I will reply you for sure!

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Reader Interactions

Questions & Answers

Total Posts: 212
Newest Oldest
SwagatamAdmin
September 2, 2013 • 13 years ago #14849

Thanks!

VR1 may be used for setting-up the cut off threshold, which must not exceed 110 degree Celsius (max), while P1 may be used for fine tuning the set cut off point.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
September 2, 2013 • 13 years ago #14850

The BC547 is used as the heat sensor here and therefore must be kept near the heat source.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
September 5, 2013 • 13 years ago #14940

The blue part is the relay coil……please click the diagram to enlarge and check the details.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 2, 2013 • 13 years ago #15780

That's great, if you look carefully you will find that actually the 1N4148 is not required, so you can simply remove it, and make VR1 into a 1K preset. Finished, now adjust the 1K preset for the desired actions.

However in this case your power supply must be regulated, so add a 7812 IC after the bridge for making the supply stabilized.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 7, 2013 • 13 years ago #15923

connect one LED from pin6 to positive, another from pin6 to ground, both LEDs should have individual series 10k resistors.

one of them will indicate ON, the other one as OFF.

Reply
kasain nunu
October 10, 2013 • 13 years ago #16057

altenative of 741 IC

Reply
kasain nunu
October 10, 2013 • 13 years ago #16058

hi sir in my place there is no an IC 741 and 4060 what are their altenertive

Reply
kasain nunu
October 10, 2013 • 13 years ago #16059

altanative of bc557 transistor

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 11, 2013 • 13 years ago #16082

if you don't get these, you won't get the other alternatives also for sure, consult the dealer, he will know better.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 12, 2013 • 13 years ago #16123

for second diagram P1 = 1k,
BC547 is the only sensor near heat source.
keep P2 at center, set VR1 roughly to activate the relay at about 70 degree temp, after this only P2 may be used for getting other desired thresholds.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 12, 2013 • 13 years ago #16124

….correction: for second diagram VR1 = 1k, P1 = 100k

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 12, 2013 • 13 years ago #16156

pin4 line of 741 is the ground

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 12, 2013 • 13 years ago #16158

Connect an LED in between R2 and collector of BC547…..keep pin2 of 741 disconnected with R2.
Switch ON power and heat BC547 slightly at about 60 degree and adjust VR1 such that the LED starts glowing dimly…that's all your circuit is set.
Now connect pin2 of 741 back in position, repeat the procedure and adjust P1 to activate relay at any desired temperature within 110 degree.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 12, 2013 • 13 years ago #16159

you can use soldering iron to heat the transistor…but be careful not to overheat BC547

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 14, 2013 • 13 years ago #16222

It basically depends on Ub (supply voltage), R1 and R2.
R1 and R2 may be selected with the following formulas:

R1 = (Ub – 0.6)/5 (kohms)
R2 = (Ub – 1.5)/15 (kohns)

these are the only computations available.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 14, 2013 • 13 years ago #16223

to the pin4 rail of IC741

Reply
Clifford Hodgson
October 27, 2013 • 13 years ago #16733

Please are the D5 and D6 diodes some heat censors?

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 28, 2013 • 13 years ago #16746

D5 and T1 are the sensors….T1 is the main sensor which needs to be kept near the heat source to be measured.

Reply
Rithesh Shetty
October 28, 2013 • 13 years ago #16763

Hey sir..
I was the one who said 8/10 egg's
hatched, please read that
comment again before answering
this.
i did 4 boards with the modified
circuit with the following
modifications
1. gave LED in series with 10k.
2.hyst 100k preset in series with
10k resister.
3. A capacitor across base and
positive.
Done everything as yu said.
Still problem is'nt solved, all
boards giving same problem.
It works good and fine first day
(completely accurate), but after a
day the temp on/off range
changes again.
Sometimes it never turns OFF or
ON, couldn't findout what is the
prob.
i think the room temperature
again affecting its behaviour.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 29, 2013 • 13 years ago #16773

Hi Rithesh,

Remove the 100k hyst preset link, we do not need it at all because the heat will never rise or fall quickly, so a hysteresis feature is not required.

Did you try the last circuit as given in the above article??

Make it exactly as it's given…don't forget to use a 7812 IC with the circuit.

Use good quality preset for both VR1 and P1.

Make the above mods, it will work.

With 1N4148 removed room temperature will not affect the circuit in anyway.

In future you could think of replacing VR1, P1 with fixed resistors.

Reply
Ngoni Chiremba
October 29, 2013 • 13 years ago #16781

HIE SIR THANKS BUT MY QUESTION IS TO WHAT CAPACITY DOES THIS CIRCUIT HOLD IN TERMS OF NUMBER OF EGGS IN THE INCUBATOR AND HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO HATCH

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 29, 2013 • 13 years ago #16790

Hi Ngoni,

It will depend on how many heat sources you are using, for each heat source you will have to incorporate an individual circuit.

Hatching period is not known to me.

Reply
Ngoni Chiremba
October 30, 2013 • 13 years ago #16823

ok bro so for one individual circuit what is the capacity then how many eggs per circuit are we looking at

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 31, 2013 • 13 years ago #16841

It will depend on the area used, and the wattage of the heat source, it can be dimensioned to any desired range as per requirements.

Reply
Ngoni Chiremba
October 31, 2013 • 13 years ago #16850

thanks bro you are helping so much .is it proper to use one heat source for a 5m by 1.5m area and the heat source is an infrared light

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
October 31, 2013 • 13 years ago #16862

I have neve rused an IR light for heating purpose, how much heat does it produce?

Reply
Ngoni Chiremba
October 31, 2013 • 13 years ago #16851

l want to use any area of 5m by 1.5m so is one infrared light ok as a heat source

Reply
Ngoni Chiremba
November 1, 2013 • 13 years ago #16886

hie bro the infrared light a 250watt rating and what is the most desired heat source

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
November 2, 2013 • 13 years ago #16908

It will depend on the egg hatching specifications, you can get the information online regarding the right temperature required for hatching eggs. Then you can adjust the above circuit for maintaining the particular temperature range, throughout.

Reply
ian james pagulayan
March 19, 2014 • 13 years ago #20647

how many eggs would the box contain to do the process 😀

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
March 20, 2014 • 13 years ago #20664

will depend on the size of the heat source.

Reply
Oliver Villarin
March 28, 2014 • 13 years ago #20907

hello sir swagatam, i already made the simplified version of your design, but it wont turn off the heat source ,,, if i adjust the vr1 manually, it will initialize turn on/off the relay but it wont turn off/on automatically to my desired temp, will you email me the step by step procedure in setting up my desired temp, cut-off,, tanx in advance

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
March 29, 2014 • 13 years ago #20931

hello Oliver, i am sorry it's not that easy.
you can include an LED immediately after R2 and in series with it.
Allow the transistor BC547 to heat up to around 70 degrees, and adjust VR1 to just make the LED glow.
At this point you can try adjusting P1 for the required switching of the relay, or if it's already switched ON adjust P1 to just switch it OFF and then readjust to just switch it ON back.
The circuit is set now and will repeat the actions every time the temp reaches the set threshold
I hope you got it.

Reply
Oliver Villarin
March 31, 2014 • 13 years ago #20989

tanx a lot sir for the quick reply,,, maybe i can try the adjustment by next week coz i am out of town right now….i will follow the adjustment you say and update here the result ,,,

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
March 31, 2014 • 13 years ago #21001

OK!

Reply
khalid binalik
April 27, 2014 • 12 years ago #21858

sir, i have a temperature controller built-in-type, in its user guide denote that use a snubber circuit for long life of relay of temperature controller, how can select the values of resistor and capacitor which involved in snubber circuit? i'm waiting for your suggestion….

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
April 28, 2014 • 12 years ago #21871

Khalid, that'll depend on many factors, you'll need to calculate it through an online snubber calculator software.

Reply
Lloyd Mallari
June 20, 2014 • 12 years ago #23638

Good day Sir Swagatam, i will be making this projet and i will base on your circuit as a reference =) I only have samome basic concepts questions.

What will happen to the Light (heater) if the heat goes up in the sensor? Will it dim or will it turn off?
Which pots are assigned to set the temperatures from 0-120? Can it be made in a way that it that if (assuming) i set the min temperature to 20 degrees it will light up and shine brighter if lower temperatures are achieved? And 35 degrees it will dim?

Or i got it all wrong? Hehehe sorry for asking a lot of question. I'm kinda new to these.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
June 20, 2014 • 12 years ago #23645

Good day Lloyd, the heater will shut off for a moment if the heat exceeds above the set high threshold, and will switch ON back as the temperature falls below the lower threshold.

The setting up adjustments could be done in the following manner:

connect a RED LED in series with R2, and adjust VR1 until this LED begins glowing at the required high temperature from the heater (not to exceed 100 degrees C), ignore the relay response during this setting.

the heater should not be connected through the relay rather directly through a manual switch

Now once the above position is reached, carefully adjust P1 so that the relay just deactivates, if it's already in a deactivated position, force it to activate by adjusting P1 and immediately adjust it back to deactivate it, all these must be while the red LED is still glowing bright.

your setting up procedure is complete now, connect the heater via the relay contacts as shown in the diagram, check and enjoy the automatic response as per the above settings.

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
June 20, 2014 • 12 years ago #23646

…for a dimming and brightening type of response you may refer to the following design:

https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2013/01/automatic-temperatureclimate-controlled.html

Reply
Lloyd Mallari
July 7, 2014 • 12 years ago #24097

Hi Sir, I don't know if my comment have been published. But just to be sure, i want to thank you again and i appreciate it very much for replying to my questions!
I cannot find any way to private message you so i will put my request here to you..

I changed my mind, instead i wanna make a 12v dc temperature controlled fan.

I want it to make as such, it will turn on at 20 degrees and it will turn off below 20 degrees. If it reaches 20 degrees above, the speed of the fan will go faster aswell. The heat source will be the surrounding. And can we possibly add a LED, that will glow brighter aswell? I need as an example of a closed loop feedback control system. Please..

Thank you again sir! I'll wait for your reply. Regards! (my gmail is here : rreddmallari@gmail.com)

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
July 8, 2014 • 12 years ago #24107

Hi Lloyd, you can try the following circuit:

1.bp.blogspot.com/-YmlmSYSqUTU/U7UWfVEzlHI/AAAAAAAAHcc/E6Uh_aI7rpA/s1600/solar+ater+heater+regulator+for+drip+irrigation.png

Replace the heater with the fan, and the 9v supply with 12V

Connect a red LED in series with the base of the transistor for the indications.

Adjust P1 precisely so that the fan triggers at 20 degrees approximately.

Reply
Mujahid Bhutta
January 28, 2015 • 12 years ago #28456

in fig 2 R1 isnt grounded ……. am i ri8???

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
January 28, 2015 • 12 years ago #28474

no, it's correctly shown in the diagram, R1 and the pot form a potential divider for the transistor base

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
January 28, 2015 • 12 years ago #28475

….yes it should not be grounded

Reply
Manish Kumar
April 4, 2015 • 12 years ago #29768

can u give me info..about 12v dc motor

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
April 6, 2015 • 12 years ago #29788

12v DC works on 12V DC power

Reply
Ekene Okeke
May 10, 2015 • 11 years ago #30640

Sir … I really need help on how to construct a DC thermostat with LCD display ….. With can trigger on a fan at 50centigrade only … .. Any link or help will be appreciated
Ekenekk@gmail.com

Reply
Ekene Okeke
May 10, 2015 • 11 years ago #30641

Sir I need help on how to construct a DC thermostat with LCD display , which can equally trigger on a fan at 50degree centigrade ….. Pls this is my project … I need urgent help … Any link or help will be highly appreciated …
Ekenekk@gmail.com

Reply
SwagatamAdmin
May 10, 2015 • 11 years ago #30648

Hi Ekene, I'll try to publish it soon, do keep in touch.

Reply
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