You might have probably come across these fantastic high power, high efficiency LED modules and wondered how do you make these? Here I have explained how to make a 100 watt LED flashlight out of it?
Introduction
The article revises the datasheet of this LED module and explains a simple driver circuit which can be used for operating it safely for the intended lighting purpose.
So far we have learned about LEDs with rather smaller features and applications. However the present article finds out how a LED module in the order of 100 watts can be actually used for illuminating a house at costs probably 5 times lower than the conventional lighting devices.
100 Watt LED Module Image
We have all studied a great deal about LEDs and about their high-efficiency with power consumption.
The LED technology has helped us to design and incorporate very high intensity light installations at minimal consumptions as compared to the other conventional form of lighting concepts.
Lower power consumption also means low heat emissions, which again is an added feature and helps to keep the crucial issue of global warming at bay when LEDs are utilized.
As days pass by, technology keeps on improving and we are able to witness many incredible and unbelievable results with these outstanding lighting devices.
The 100 watt LED module is one such marvel of modern science which has created a breakthrough in the field of LED lighting.
Not surprisingly, the device is able to generate an astonishing 6500 lumens of light intensity at a consumption of mere 100 watts, but the interesting part is the size, which is barely 40 square mm.
The saving made by these devices is estimated to be five times more than any other form of light producing device and the if we compare the specified intensity of 6500 lumens, that corresponds to an excess of 500 watts light power that might be acquired from a halogen lamp.
Let’s discuss the important specifications of this amazing LED in brief and in such a way that even a layman understands:
100 Watt LED Datasheet
Typically the preferred color is white, as that produces the most favorable and desirable illumination for all applications.
- The power consumed is 100 watts for optimal performance.
- The emanated heat for the specified white color is up to 6000 Kelvin.
- The intensity of light generated with the above specs is a staggering 6500 lumens.
- Typical operating voltage of the device is around 35 volts.
- The current required for producing the above light intensity is around 3 Amps.
- ESD level is safe and very high up to 4000 V.
- The safe operating temperature level is very wide, ranging from minus 40 to 110 degrees Celsius.
- The optimum angle of viewing is also wide, up to 120 degree.
- Dimension of the unit is truely mini, the height being 4.3 mm, length 56 mm and width 40 mm only.
Typical Specifications
- LED Type: 100W COB LED
- CRI: Ra70-80/ Ra80-85/ Ra90-95 / Ra95-98
- IF (Forward Current): 3500mA
- VF (Forward Voltage): 29-34volts
- Chip Category: Bridgelux
- Power Output: 100 Watt
- Angle of Beam: 120 degree
- Illumination Magnitude: 10000-14000lm
- Substrate: high-grade copper
- CCT: 3000K, 4000K, 5000K, 6000K.(any CCT can be customized)
- Main application areas: Spotlight, Roving head light, light in stage shows, photography, High intensity rescue floodlight, etc
The specification narrated are sufficient for illuminating a 20 square meter space amply, almost at flood light levels ….. baffling.
Main Features of the 100 Watt LED
The advantages include the following:
High power light output without degradation even after long usages.
Highly robust mechanical specifications, involving less wear and tear and high resistance to changing atmospheric hostilities.
The overall performance is consistently optimal throughout the operating life.
Having discussed the above features of the proposed 100 watt LED lamp, it would be interesting to also learn regarding a useful recommended circuit that may be used for driving or operating the device at safe levels.
How to Make a Current Controlled 100 watt LED flood Light Circuit
A simple two transistor, powerful current limiter, LED driver circuit, which can be used for converting the above discussed device into a 100 watt LED flashlight or to be more accurate, a floodlight is described below:
The circuit of a 100 watt LED flood light shown below has been discussed in few of my other articles also, due its versatile and rather straightforward design; the circuit becomes very suitable in places where current limiting at low costs becomes an issue.
Though the discussed designs mostly dealt with low current applications, the present circuit is specifically intended for handling high currents and up to 100 watts and more power.
Circuit Diagram
Looking at the figure we can see a couple of transistors are coupled together such that the base of the upper transistor T1 becomes the collector load of the bottom transistor T2.
The upper transistor T1 which actually carries the LED current is quite vulnerable itself, and is not equipped to control the amount of current through itself and the LED.
However since the base current of this transistor decides the amount of collector current that can pass, it simply means that by restricting its base current to some safe specified levels, it might be possible to keep the overall consumption within tolerable limits.
A current sensing resistor connected at the emitter of T1 is used to convert the current consumed, into a potential difference, across it. This potential difference becomes the base trigger for R2.
However as long as this voltage is below 0.6 volts or simply below the minimum forward voltage drop of T2, T2 remains unresponsive, but once it starts exceeding this value, triggers T2 which in turn clamps the base voltage of T1, rendering it inactive.
This instantaneous cut off of the base drive to T1 shuts the LED for some fraction of a second, bringing the current and the potential drop across the current limiting resistor to zero.
This action reverts the circuit to its original stance and the LED is again switched ON.
The process repeats a number of times per second to keep the LED and the current to safe and precisely tolerable limits.
The value of R2 is calculated in such a way that it keeps the potential difference across itself below 0.6 volts until the LED current reaches 100 watts, after which the restricting process begins.
Warning: The LED must be mounted on a correctly optimized heatsink as per the specifications provided in its datasheet..
How to Calculate the Constant Current Limiting Resistor
For calculating R1 you may use the following formula:
R1 = (Us - 0.7)Hfe/Load Current,
where Us = supply voltage, Hfe = T1 forward current gain, Load current = LED current = 100/35 = 2.5 amps
R1 = (35 - 0.7)30/2.5= 410 Ohms,
wattage for the above resistor would be = 35 x (35/410) = 2.98 or 3 watts
Formula for calculating R2 is:
R2 = 0.7/LED current
R2 = 0.7/2.5 = 0.3 ohms,
wattage may be calculated as = 0.7 x 2.5 = 2 watts
For an SMPS driver circuit please refer to this article
Current Controlled 100 watt LED Lamp complete schematic
Questions & Answers
Hi, yes it is doable.
T1 and T2 are transistors, for your application you may use TIP31 for T1 and 2N2222 for T2.
As per your LED specs the other component values could be as follows:
R1 = 270 ohms, 1 watt
R2 = 0.7 ohms 1 watt
Your calculations and assumptions are perfectly correct, in fact I have aready discussed the idea elaborately here, you can refer it for better understanding:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2013/06/universal-high-watt-led-current-limiter.html
…a 1% MFR type resistor will do the job.
I respectfully request you to explain what's incorrect in the above formula and diagram….if you are unable to do it, you can learn it from me further, don't worry I will apologize you for your above ignorance.
I have not built this circuit yet, but you can try TIP35 for T1 and TIP31 for T2
Hi Swagatam
I could not see my post (in the hobby circuits) as well as your reply, which I have been notified in my mail box!
Anyway, please check and confirm if following components would be okay for supplying fixed 5A to the load from a car battery:
R1 = 68R 2Watts
R2 = 0.14R 3.5Watts
T1 = TIP41 (6A)
T2 = TIP31 (3A)
Hi Abu-Hafss,
Which posts are you referring to?
Yes the calculations are approximately correct.
The T1 heat up very quickly …but i only tested at 12v/18A, maybe the low voltage or the high amps cause the T1 to heat up? I used T1,T2 mje3055, R1 390R and R2 0.5R (3w both). Thanks.
yes, when voltage is low, current will be high, you can try TIP35 with heatsink for getting a better response
Hi Swagatam
I referred to the post wherein you recommended me LM338 for fixed 5A supply from car battery. By the way, what would be wiring of LM338 with car battery?
As for this circuit, will it be possible to use it as variable current controller? If yes, how?
Hi Abu-Haafss,
I have no idea what happened to that comment, may be due to some kind of glitch in the system.
Please refer to the following article, you can go for the first circuit shown there:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2013/06/universal-high-watt-led-current-limiter.html
I have a 10W LED flood light that I purchased off Ebay. The manufacturer states that the LED itself has a forward voltage of 9-11V with a max current consumption of 1050mA. I do not want to use it at the full current. I'd like to keep it below the max around 900mA. I'd like to be able to do 2 things with it once it is converted over. 1) Use it as a standard flood light on my vehicle and 2) Have the ability of making it flash like an emergency light. Can I use a 2N2222 for T2 and what resistor values do you recommend ?
I think you should use a LM317 IC for your application, the above circuit is crude and should be used only for those applications which does not support the available hi-tech ICs due to high voltage/current parameters.
You can try the first design shown in the following link:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2012/11/3-watt-5-watt-led-dc-to-dc-constant.html
For making it flash, you can use a standard IC555 astable circuit and connect its output pin3 to the collector of the 2N2222.
When you switch ON this circuit, will result in flashing of the LEd.
I need Constant Current Driver circuit for 12Volt,20Watts and 10watts LEDs kindly share the simple diagram
you will have to use an smps for this, there's no simple circuit for it
hello! i have 6watt led from ebay and data is 9v-12v dc. @ 380mA. each. i want to run 6-12 of this led at a time. What should i use in the circuit? or, can you kindly make a circuit for that? is it possible to run these led with transformerless power supply? please! Help me. Thanks. 🙂
capacitive type of power supply will not work with these LEDs.
The easiest way is to procure a good quality 12V/2amp SMPS and drive all the LEDs in parallel with this unit.
Can you show me the mentioned circuit? Please???? I want to make 12v/2amp SMPS. will you kindly show me how?
you an make this circuit:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2012/03/how-to-make-simple-12-v-1-amp-switch.html
just upgrade the secondary winding from 1amp to approx 2amps by using two parallel wire instead of one. Wind these two wires simultaneously.
I have a 10W LED which has a forward voltage of 9-11V with a max current consumption of 1050mA. Can I run this LED with 7809.
yes, you can do it.
Hi there!
I recently bought a 100W LED which has 34V forward voltage and 3A forward current. What kind of transistors should I use in my case?
Hi,
you can use TIP3055 for T1, and TIP31 for T2
Hello Swagatam Majumdar. Very good website and very useful !!!!
I buy one of this 100w led cool white , But I looking at the datasheet, I do not understand WHICH IS BETTER VALUE OF CURRENT AND VOLTAGE for maximum brightness is achieved without damaging the LED (with heatsink and fan).
I read IF= 3,5 A
Min 32
Typ 34
Max 36
I THINK 3,5 IS MUCH CURRENT BECAUSE P=V.I=34V . 3,5 A = 119 W.
THIS I HAVE: i.imgur.com/DBCJNuI.png
I LIKE BUILD A LIMIT CURRENT A OUTPUT VOLTAGE REGULATOR.
COMPONENTS AND VALUES THAT RECOMMENDED BUY ME TO GET THE MAXIMUM LED LIGHTING WITHOUT BREAKING IT???? ( I WILL PUT IT WITH HEATSINK AND FAN)
MY IDEA IS PUT 34V- 3A OR 33V-3.2 A
but i dont know values using of T1, T2 , R1 AND R2 AND POWER OF THESE what can you tell me??
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
REGARDS.
Hello Harley,
I think you should go for 32V as it looks very optimal, safe and within the reach of an LM338 circuit which I would be referring to you, the above circuit could be relatively crude so I don't recommend it.
You can use a 0-24/5amp transformer, rectify it using a full bridge rectifier and filter the output with a 1000uF/50V cap.
Apply the above output to a LM338 current limiter circuit and use the output from this circuit to illuminate your LED. This would provide an ultimate guarantee to your device….however do not forget about adding a heatsink to the LED.
The LM338 circuit is shown in this link:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2013/06/universal-high-watt-led-current-limiter.html
use the first design, replace LM117 with LM338 and calculate R1 from the given formula
….a 0-24V after rectification would output around 34V, which is just suitable for your application, the rest will be handled by the LM338 circuit
Hello and thanks for your fast response.
I I already bought Power DC-DC Boost Converter 150W 10-32V to 12-35V 6A .
You mean it does not serve me this dc-dc boost.
I have little knowledge and no clear to my this mounting.
IS THIS CORRECT?
i.imgur.com/965TvoC.png
IF I CHOOSE OPTION DOWN THE VALUES ARE TIP3055 for T1, and TIP31 for T2
R1 = (32 – 0.7)30/3
= 313 OHMS
wattage for the above resistor would be = 32 x (32/313) = 3.3 WATTS
Formula for calculating R2 is:
R2 = 0.7/LED current
R2 = 0.7/3 = 0.23 ohms,
wattage may be calculated as = 0.7 x 3 = 2.1 watts
IF I WOULD LIKE THE OPTION 1 CIRCUIT HOW FINDING VALUES?
SORRY FOR MY LITTLE KNOWLEDGE.
REGARDS FRIEND.
Harley, the connections shown in the image are perfect, if the boost converter is able to provide the required current/voltage, everything would work satisfactorily.
I would recommend the IC current limiter over the above transistorized version because it's much sophisticated in all respects.
However if you are interested to go for the above, you may do so.
The calculations that you have made are also correct.
Hello Swagatam, really amazing tutorial.
I am new in the world of electronics and would like to know how to wire a 0,12A cooling fan so that it is powered by the same 12v battery that powers the led.
Thank you for your time.
Best regards.
Thanks Miha.
You may do it by simply connecting the motor wires parallel with the battery poles, observing correct polarity
If the motor is rated at a lower voltage, you may use a regulator IC such as 7805, 7806, 7808, 7809 etc whatever may suit your motor.
dear sir i want to flash sequentially/(running mode) 4 to 6 nos of 3w color leds from 12v dc source. request circuit instructions.
Dear Jayanath, you can try the following design:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2011/12/simple-yet-effective-led-strobe-light.html
First construct the shown design successfully using 5mm LEDs, later I'll explain how to modify it for illuminating high watt LEDs
ok sir i will do and let u know thanks
ckt for 10W LED?
Dear Sir,
Thanks for the setup, could you pls tell the value of T1 and T2. Also in Ebay its advised to give 32 to 35V , Approx 3500mAh. In this stage, i guess 32V is feasible right. Can you please suggest a best transformer-less circuit with best filter with zener protection.
Awaiting for your valuable feedback, thanks in advance.
Dear Anish, you will have to procure a 32V/3amp SMPS and use it with the above circuit for driving the LED
I would like to try a 50 watt version and a 30 watt version, would you change the R value for each curcuit?
you can take the help of the following article and the given formulas:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2013/02/make-this-1000-watt-led-flood-light.html
By way of the DC boost converter that utilizes the much higher, reversed polarity fly back voltage from its inductors collapsing magnetic field whilst its oscillating at high frequency. That higher then source and presently AC voltage is then rectified back to DC at the desired higher voltage. Pretty simple stuff when you look at the schematics for any boost/buck converters…
How can you vary the brightness of 100 watt led?
use a variable resistance for R2
Great blog.
Question: what do u use for T1 and T2? Url? Any heatsink requirements?
Question: are R1 and R2 axial resistors?
thanks, heatsinks will be required for T1/T2 depending on the load dimension.
R1, R2 could be axial or any other variant doesn't make any difference.
HI! Like the others; Great site, and thanks for sharing your knowledge! But I wish you could have been a bit more specific this time. An amateur tinkerer like me has no idea what transistors to use. I can build stuff from schematics, and cross reference if I don't have the recommended transistors, but I need to know where to start looking in my scrap box…
I'm experimenting with a similar LED to the one in the picture. I rescued it from a dumpster, so I don't have the specs, but a quick test showed that it works. It has five rows of ten LEDs, and after googeling a bit it seems that that means it's a 100W unit, right? And if so, what would you have used for T1 and T2?
On behalf of noobs the world over, please enlighten us!
(recommendations for 50W and 200W+ setups are also most welcome… 🙂
Hi, thanks
you can use TIP3055 for T1, and TIP31 for T2, these transistors would also work for 50 watt and 200 watt lamps 🙂
Hi, I have a workshop and would like to run 5 x 50w led flood lights in a row,
they would be run from a 240v output genarator.
Can I run them from one driver/transformer or does each LED need a separate supply?
I am out of my depth when it comes to making one so I will have to buy what I need.
Could you please advise me on what I need to get.
Many Thanks
Hi, you can run all the 5 modules from a single adequately rated power supply unit, preferably an SMPS unit.
In between each LED and the supply you will need to insert a current controller stage as shown in the first diagram of the following post:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2013/06/universal-high-watt-led-current-limiter.html
LM117 will need to be replaced with LM338
I want to power a 10w led using a 12v lipo batter, i wanted to use the 2nd circuit that you mention here: https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2012/11/3-watt-5-watt-led-dc-to-dc-constant.html I want to also make that flash like emergency lights. I saw that you mention on the comments here for a guy to use "IC555 astable circuit" is that what I need to use, if so, how do I hook it up in the circuit, and where do I purchase it, or can I just do a google search for "IC555 astable circuit"
thank you for your help.
yes you can use any standard 555 astable flasher circuit and drive the LED from a BJT stage connected at pin3 of the IC…..such as a TIP122…connect its base with pin3 via a 10k resistor, emitter to ground (negative) and the LED across collector of the transistor and positive supply.
The battery poles may be then connected to the input of the LM338 circuit and the output of the LM338 to the pin4/8 (positive) and pin1 (ground) of the astable….positive will also connect to the LED as explained above
thank you for your reply, can you tell me what is a BJT, kinda new to this, is there any way you can post a quick wiring diagram of how you are telling me to hoke it up please