#156377

Hello, I’m going to make a DIV nail polishing curing lamp, which will contain 30 led bulbs, with following manufacturer data:

1) Wavelength: 375nm
2. Power: 3W
3. Forward Current: 600-700mA
4. Forward Voltage: DC3.2-3.6V

I’m going to place each led bulb on the 20mm*1mm round PCB Aluminium plates and then place then on the larger aluminum heat sink. Which wiring method and power supply would you recommend?

Would be glad to receive your advice.

Author
#156384

Hi, thanks for the interesting question:
A 3W LED would normally consume around 900 mA, so for 30 LEDs, you would require a total current of 900 * 30 = 27 Amps, that’s a lot of current.
You will need a regulated constant voltage, constant current DC output for your LEDs, which can be achieved using the following basic voltage regulator circuit:
regulated power supply basics
For T1 you can use the transistor MJ11028:
https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/mj11028-d.pdf
T2 can be a 2N2222 BJT
T3 can be also a 2N2222 BJT.
VR1 can be a 10k preset or trimpot.
R2 = 0.7 / 25 = 0.025 Ohm resistor (power will be 0.7 * 25 = around 20 watts
Input DC can be from a a 6V or 9V 30 amp DC power supply
Diode d1 is not required and can be replaced with a short.
Let me know if you have any further questions.

#156387

Thank you for your quick response. I didn’t expect that transistor and resistor would need to be implemented manually for my case; wouldn’t the power supply (according to your recommendation, I found one from aliexpress AC 220V to 9V 30A 270W DC) already be self regulating?

2) on your circuit scheme – where are the 30 PCs led bulbs, and how should they be wired?

Regards
Mark

Author
#156435

I am not sure whether your power supply is self regulating or not, if it can automatically adjust the output to 3.3V, 25 Amps then there’s no need of any external regulator circuit.
In the suggested regulator circuit, the LED must be connected at the “+DC OUT” side.
All the LEDs can be wired in parallel.
For extra safety you can add a 1 ohm 1 watt resistor in series with each LED.

#156490

Thank you for your reply. May I add you on telegram (my account @mark25mark) or WhatsApp (‪+4917685699047‬) and show you the foto of the planned power supply unit? I would appreciate if I could consult you on this way where I can show you pictures.

regards
Mark

Author
#156495

Could you please send the pictures to my email?:
homemadecircuits
@gmail.com
I will check it and let you know my opinion here.

#150456

if i connect 1.2 volt 10 led in series circuit with 12 volt line, then can i avoid using register in circuit???

Author
#150473

Yes, then you can avoid the resistor, however the 12V must not exceed at any cost.

#148638

Hello Swagatam, I built a doll house for my daughter. I would like to use small fairy LEDs to light and decorate it. During Christmas I purchased a roll of fairy lights on very thin silver wire. The lights are about the size of a grain of rice. The package says the string can be cut to length, but it has to be used with the battery pack that comes attached. I need to cut several 3-light, 4-light and 5- light pieces out of the string. How do I wire each of these different light sections? I believe I need a resistor, but I do not know the voltage or current requirements for the LEDs. I would like to use a 9 volt battery to power the lights, but I am open to whatever you may suggest. Thanks!

Author
#148640

Hi Doran, if the package says the string can be cut to length, that means each LED could be having its own individual resistor in the string, otherwise cutting the strip into any desired length might be impossible. So I guess the pieces can all be wired in parallel with the supply voltage. You can try connecting the 3 LED strip with the 9v battery and check the response, if it illuminates normally that would indicate my assumption is correct. If you do not wish to take any risks, then you can try connecting a 470 ohm resistor in series and check the brightness level, and keep adjusting the resistor value until the LEDS illuminates optimally. I would also rather recommend using a 3v DC source first without any resistor that would quickly clarify the minimum voltage level of the string…if it does not illuminate the LEDs you can go a little higher and keep doing this until the right voltage level is identified…

#148304

Dear Mr. Engineer Swagatam,
I am working on my first modling kit of a Spacecraft and am trying to light it. I wanted to use both LED strips in series, but I also wanted to put in slow and reg blinking LEDs to a total of 24. I have a 12V imput.

I found a site that sells 3v LEDS that (even in different colors) that blink and don’t blink respectively, but all are 3V exactly. I also found the same LED lights in 12V. So here’s my question. If I use the 3V and put them in parallel rows of four then I wouldn’t require any resistors? But Could I put them into the same circuit as the LED strips and just split the wire right off the battery source or at any split between LED Strips?
Or Could I just attach the 12V LEDs at the end of any LED Strip and the number wouldn’t matter because they are 12V like the strips themselves?
I’ve soldered just LEDS before, and just LED strips, before but never tried to combine them without a microchip of some sort, but I wouldn’t know the exact way to do that either. Any info to help would be greatly appreciated!

Author
#148306

Thanks Vonelle for posting this question.
Since, the 3V LEDs can be illuminated using 3V supply and also from 12V, that means the LEDs have built-in voltage regulator, and is safe to drive from a 12v dc supply. Therefore you can connect these LED modules using 12v dc at any position in the circuit, you can take the supply directly from the battery terminals or from the end of the existing 12v led strips, it does not matter as long as the 3v LED modules are getting the 12v supply or any supply above 3v.

#142708

HELLO SWAGTAM, IN ABOVE EXAMPLE U HAVE REDUCED THE NUMBER OF LED FROM 4 TO 3 IF THE BATTERY VOL COMES DOWN. AS FAR AS I KNOW A FULLY CHARGED 12V BATTERY IS AROUND 14.3 V. 3*3.2 V = 9.6V . WILL THE 3 LEDs NOT get DAMAGED.I HAVE DONE THIS PRACTICAL. LEDs GOT DAMAGED..SO PLZ DONT ASSUME ANYTHING ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS.

ALSO U DONT GIVE VALUE OF ALL RESISTANCES IN MANY POWER SUPPLY CIRCUITS. PLZ GIVE FULL DETAILS SO THAT EVERYONE COULD BENEFIT.

Author
#142709

Hello Sanjeev,
May I ask why you have written in capital letters?
A fully charged 12V battery when disconnected from the charger will settle down to around 12.8 V, and not 14.3 V.
LEDs can never get damaged if a calculated resistor is used in series.
And I have clearly given the formula to calculate the resistor, so the LEDs can never burn with a resistor connected.
I always give values of all parts in my circuit diagrams. What you are saying is incorrect.

#141242

Good day MR Swagatam.
I have a pcb with 8 smd leds connected in series. leds are 5 x 3 mm in size. These leds are powered from a 6 volt 4A/h sla battery with no current limiting resistors on the pcb( I have checked on the charger pcb to, negative runs straight from the battery to the led pcb and positive runs from the battery through a dpdt switch to the led pc ). This circuit comes from an old emergency light with a dead battery and broken charger circuit. How can I determine the vf and mA for these leds as I would like to use this pcb to make a work light for my small milling machine. I have used a battery from another emergency light with the exact same model number as the light that I obtained this pcb from and when I connect the battery to the pcb the leds light up fairly bright and the pcb warms up fairly fast and I think it is because of no current limiting resistor. I want to power my work light from a 220 volt AC to 6 volt DC wall plug smps. I would like to add current limiting resistor so that the leds does not run so hot and can last longer. There is no markings on the leds or the board so that is why I need to know if there is a way that I can determine the vf and mA rating for each individual led so that I can calculate the current limiting resistor value. If I try to remove one led from the board, I will destroy it, so I will only be able to test with all the leds connected in series.
Thank you.

Author
#141254

Hello Ian,
You can try the following procedure:
Connect a relatively high value resistor such as 1K and connect it in series with one of the supply wires of the LED module.
Next, take a variable power supply and adjust its voltage to around 3V and feed the supply to the LED module through the 1k resistor.
If you find the LED module glowing with some minimum brightness that would mean that the module is rated at 3.3 V.
In this situation you can bypass the 1K resistor with a short link. If this makes the LED much brighter would confirm that the module is rated at 3.3V.
Next connect an ammeter and check the current of the module to find the optimal current requiremeent of the module.
If the module does not glow at 3V, make sure not to remove the 1k resistor and keep increasing the voltage very slowly until the module starts glowing with some minimum brightness.
Repeat the procedure which was done for the 3V indication.

#136934

Hi! I have about 150 leds to connect and make a word “SALON”. Can i use 12v dc or not and why. Best regards

Author
#136943

Yes you can do it with a 12 V supply, by creating strings of LEDs, having 3 LEDs on each string with a limiting resistor.

#131672

Hello sir how r u
Sir I want to run 100 led of 3.3v in parallel connection to 230v ac so u have any circuit for that

Author
#131677

Hello Basit, you will have to use an SMPS circuit for this.

Assuming the current rating of each LED is 20mA, then for all the 100 in parallel the current wuld be 2 amps.

So you might need an SMPS circuit rated at 6V 2 amps or 12V 2 amps, then use the following formula for calculating the limiting resistor which must be connected in series with each LED

R = SMPS Voltage – 3.3 / 0.02

#120041

Hi, my friend!
I want to use LEDs as a brake light (3-5watt) for a car. Is it possible to use a diode with the following characteristics:
SMD5730
0.5Вw 3-3.4V 150mA
The use of a quenching resistor is not possible due to its large power and size.
I looked at the diagrams on voltage stabilizers, but so far I can’t correctly calculate the parameters of such stabilizer for SMD5730.
What can you advise in this situation? Perhaps you know the wiring diagram?
Yours faithfully, Jorge

Author
#120055

Hi, friend, are you trying to make a 5 watt LED using 150 mA LEDs by connecting them in series and parallel? For this you will need series resistors and also a LM338 current regulator.

#120076

Thank you, my friend Swagatam!
I’ll try to use LM2596 as current regulator for LED. Or maybe MT3608 module.
I think that I will not need limiting resistors if I use a current regulator with a pre-set operating voltage for the LEDs in parallel.
After my experiments, I will definitely write a short report. I think it will be useful for many users.

Author
#120120

You are most welcome Jorge,
Yes no resistor will be required if the current is set correctly, and if the input voltage is exactly equal to the recommended forward voltage of the LEDs.
All the best to you.

#106588

Vs = 1.2 volts
red led forward voltage = 1.6 volts
I = 10mA
r = to be determined below

1.2 – 1.6 / .01 = (-158.8)
So, I need to use a -158.8 resistor? I don’t think such a thing exists. What do I do?

Author
#106600

Operating a 1.6 V LED with 1.2 V also doesn’t exist.

Author
#106601

…Use a joule thief circuit

#106629

Thank you for your advice…

Author
#111711

Hi Chad, The input capacitor decides the current to the LED. A 0.22uF will produce 10 mA current which is sufficient for a red LED to illuminate brightly. If your LED is a 50 mA LED then you can use a 0.68 uF capacitor. The presence of the 1K and the zener will protect the LED.

#111657

Dear Swagatam,

I have a question about this picture user Mike posted.
If I use a 0.67uF instead of a 0.22uF would the high current cause the LED to burn?
And if it does, how can I avoid too much current to the LED?

Best,

Chad

Author
#97944

You are most welcome Mike!

#97839

Dear Sir Swagatam
Hello and thank you very much for patiently solving my problem and taught me a lot about LEDs and etc.
I will never forget what you did for me without any expectation.
wish you health and joy
Truly
Mike

#97822

Dear Sir Swagatam
Hello. I appreciate your efforts to solve my problem. Every thing is good now and I am grateful. And my final question please: How much could be the utmost value of 1k resistance in order to have more illuminating LEDs?
Wish you all the best and health
Best regards
Mike

#97712

Dear Sir Swagatam
Hello. Thank you very much for your useful instruction. I’m very proud of myself to know a human being who spends his precious time with others. I congratulate you for being so good and patiently respond to people.
Here is the result of your recent diagram:
input DC voltage —– Z.D. voltage —– output Voltage
30 —– 12 —–12.5
30 —– 15 —– 16
30 —– 24 —– 24.5
I did another test to see the output voltage of our circuit comprising of a 0.22 uf 400v capacitor, 1k resistor connected to it and a 1N4007 diode connected to the junction of capacitor and resistor, while the anode of it went to the other AC terminal. The output voltage was 300v DC and 600v AC without load.
He who will never forget your kindness
Mike

#97659

Dear Sir Swagatam
Thank you very much for your feedback and the new modification, kind man. Since I need to use 4 LEDs in your diagram and can not go out to buy other brands of Zeners because of severe corona, the only thing that I can tell you is that my multimeter readings are exact and that when I set it on 100k and connect it’s red probe to cathode of 24v zener diode it reads 60k and reads nothing vise versa (red probe to Anode …. ).
Any way, am I allowed to use 24v zener which in fact 12v, in place of 12 v zener in your circuit ?
Thank you so much in advance
truly yours
Mike

#97589

Dear Sir Swagatam
Hello. I added a 100uf filter capacitor to the diagram that had been provided by you and blinkings of the single LED stopped. Thank you for all your efforts and guidance. I decided to increase the No of the LEDs to 4, in series of course; and I should obviously added one 12 V zener diode across the 1st and 4th LED in the string. Here, I should kindly pay your attention to this problem that the values of all of my new and second hand zener diodes of different voltages from 10 to 24 volts (10, 12, 13, 15, 24, 27) are a bit less than half of the amount of the voltage that is printed on them; when measured by Multimeter while illuminating LEDs. Regarding that my Multimeter is OK, I added a 24 V Zener diode (12 in fact) across the string and the dropped output voltage is now 5.5 volts. I stopped the work and decided to inform you of what has happened.
I would be very glad and thankful to have your instructions Sir.
Wish you all the best
Mike

#97504

Hello dear Swagatam
Thank you very much for your comprehensive answer. I learnt more new concepts.
Regarding 560R resistor, I was talking about the circuit diagram of that Chinese Bat swatter which I had sent to your Email address .I will no longer use it Since your diagram is excellent and flexible.
Wish you all the best
Truly
Mike

Author
#97500

Hello Mike,

1) You can add a filter capacitor in my previous diagram across the LED. The value can be 100uF/25V
2) A 1k resistor is already present in the diagram provided by me in the previous comment.

This circuit is the correct circuit which will never blow the LED, other configurations can cause blowing of the LED.

If you want more LEDs in series, you can add them, just make sure to increase the zener diode value accordingly.

Author
#97830

Thank you Mike, the 1K can be reduced even to 100 ohms, it is not critical at all. It is included in the circuit just to safeguard the zener and the LED from the initial switching surge from the the 0.22uF capacitor. Once the initial switch ON surge is over, the 0.22uF will produce hardly 10mA for the LEDs.

So you can do two things, reduce the 1K to 100 ohms 1 watt and also increase the 0.22uF value to 0.33uF which will produce around 25 mA, which will be enough for producing optimal illumination for the LEDs.

Author
#97791

You are most welcome Mike!

It means you zener diodes are all working correctly, and you can use the desired zener diode as per the requirement.
Yes, without the zener diode the output from 0.22uF power supply will be 300V…once the zener diode is connected, this will drop to the zener value.

Author
#97675

Hello Mike, did you test the zener diode in the following manner?

zener testing circuit

Please test it in this manner to ensure you get the correct reading of the zener value. I won’t recommend using a zener diode which is not confirmed accurately.

Author
#97632

Thank you Mike, Glad it is working now. Yes for 4 LEDs in series the zener diode value can be 12V or 13V.
That seems very strange, a good zener diode with a limiting resistor will always show the exact voltage drop as per its printed value.
So according to me something may be wrong somewhere, either in the meter reading or the zener diodes, otherwise this problem should never arise.

There’s one modification that needs to be done in my previous 220V single LED lamp circuit. Please add a 1N4007 diode after the 0.22uF capacitor. Cathode will go to the 0.22uF/400 and 1K junction, and the anode to the other AC terminal.

Author
#97537

Thank you Mike, the LED diagram that you sent me through email has a major drawback. Due to the absence of a zener diode, the LEDs can burn anytime due to sudden voltage surge.

#97484

Sir Engineer Swagatam
Hello. How are you dear Sir? Regarding the circuit of illuminating single LED; You are kindly requested to please note the followings:
1. What is your instruction about adding an electrolyte capacitor across the 3 v zener diode to eliminate the flashing of the LED caused by the frequency of the mains supply, say 10M, 400V?
2. I mistakenly did not draw a 560R resistor in series with the Mains supply; though these circuits are very trivial and worthless for you. please accept my deep apology. I will send it again.
Thank you very much for your endiver kindness.
Truly
Mike

Author
#97163

Thank you Mike, I appreciate your feedback!

#97129

Sir engineer Swagatam
Hello. you made me very grateful,as always, with your perfect answer; very simple and economical circuit. You draw the circuit for me and I will always keep in my mind your great favor.
I will send the picture of the circuit of a commercial Chinese bat swatter to your Email address that I had used before for the aforementioned purpose.
I should add that I had replaced 3 Nos of LED’s with 3 Nos of 1N4007 diodes in order to have only one illuminating LED.
I wish you all the good things for you and your dear family.
Truly yours
Mike

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