The post presents a simple Li-ion emergency light circuit with over charge and low battery cut off features. The Circuit was requested by Mr. Saeed Abu and Y0f4N.
Technical Requirement
My requirement is:(1) Circuit is Operated by Nokia standard cell phone charger
(2) Battery nokia 3.7 volt
(3) Auto ac to dc changeover system when ac fail
(4) Battery overcharge protection system(auto battery full charge cutoff) with LED indicator.I have tried many times to develop such type of circuit but i failed. So Please bro help me urgently. Please design it simple.
The Design
The proposed Li-ion emergency light circuit with over charge and low battery cut off features functioning may be understood with the the following points:
Transistor T6 is basically configured to automatically sense and shut off the LED during the presence of mains AC and vice versa. Here a mobile charger is used for powering the T6 circuit.
As long as the mains input is available, the 1 watt LED stays switched OFF due to the presence of a positive potential at the base of T6, T6 starts conducting the moment AC mains fails illuminating the connected LED with the help of the attached Li-ion battery power.
T1 and T2 form the low battery detector stage and does the same when the Li-ion battery voltage falls below a certain predetermined level set by P1.
When this happens, T1 just stops conducting forcing T2, T3 to switch ON hard.
T3 passes the battery voltage to the base of T6 choking its conduction thereby shutting off the LED and inhibiting any further loss of voltage under the situation.
T4 and T5 are configured for the opposite function, that is for detecting the full charge of the li-ion battery.
P2 is appropriately set such that T4 conducts fully at this battery voltage.
With T4 fully ON, the base of T5 is unable to acquire the required negative biasing via R6 and thus is prevented from supplying the charging voltage to the battery, which in turn protects the battery from getting over charged and damaged in due course of time.
The red/green LEDs indicate the relevant states of the battery and the cut off conditions.
The 10 ohm with the negative of the battery may be eliminated, it's not worth with so many existing protections.
For getting a better response from the over-charge cut-off stage, the above circuit could be modified further with an additional transistor stage T5, as shown below:
Referring to the following circuit, we are able to the see a few crucial additions and removals:
IC 7805 has been added, diode at T6 collector is removed, and D1 position changed. These changes ensure that an exact 4.3V is able to develop across the emitter of T6 and ground, irrespective of the input voltage level.
D5 has been removed in order to provide a better illumination for the LED at the collector of T2.
All high value resistors have now been reduced to 1K for an increased current biasing for the BJTs.
As suggested by one of the avid readers of this blog Mr. Syed, the above diagram needed some corrections.
The finalized diagram of the Li-ion emergency light circuit with over charge and low battery cut off featurescan be seen below:
Questions & Answers
Hi sir,
I hope you are doing good.
I have some LiFe 18650 (4.5 v 2500 mah) batteries which is removed from old laptop battery. I have used it to make emergency light, I used smd leds which is removed from old led buld. When I connected it to the led its glowing very good but heating up very quickly. The led forward voltage is 4v, 50ma. Do I need to use resistor? Pls advise me.
Hi Naresh, yes definitely you will need a resistor for the LED to drop the excess 0.5 V.
The formula is R = (Supply – LED V) / LED Current
Hi sir
I have added a 10 ohm 1/4w resistor in series with battery positive, now the resistor is heating up. What would be the problem sir.
Hi Naresh, please specify what kind of load sre you using, I’ll work out the resistor for you, but 1/4 watt will not do, it must be at least 1 watt.
Hi sir,
I am using 4v 50ma smd leds 10nos in parallel.i have tried with 10 ohms 1 watt resistor also but when I use it the brightness is going low.
Sir iam using 4.5v 2500mah Life battery not 3.7v
Then 10 ohms is correct, and you should use 10 ohm separately for each LED
Hi Naresh, for 4 V 50 mA LEDs, and 3.7V Li-ion cell you will not require any series resistor. Simply connect the LEDs in parallel without any resistor.
hi swagatam
i have a question, in 3.7v li-ion battery the charging voltage is 4v how about lead acid battery rated at 4v what will be the charging voltage ?
Hi Abba, you can use any type battery as per your preference, Li-ion batt can be charged quickly that’s the only advantage of it
Hi, how can I modify this circuit to use it as mobile power bank?
too many modifications might be required, so I would recommend the following concept instead
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2013/12/usb-automatic-li-ion-battery-charger.html
use a cellphone charger for supplying the above linked circuit.
I set cut off preset I adjust 4.2v voltage unplug adapter then used the battery voltage is decrease 4.1v connected circuit then not charging I check circuit out voltage 4.1v or 4.2v then adjust cut off preset voltage increase 4.3v or 4.4v then battery charging then over charging again I set cutoff voltage 4.2v again and again I set cutoff voltage I want to parent one time set the cutoff voltage sir please update any mobile charger supportable single ic used low cost circuit diagram please sir
5V input is used through the show diodes to finally make it into 4.2V for the battery
This circuit who many voltage used input this circuit cutoff voltage please tell sir
if you are having difficulty with the above design you can try the following more accurate one:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2013/12/usb-automatic-li-ion-battery-charger.html
charging cut off led glowing in unplug adapter Glowing led then charging led glowing in unplug adapter Glowing led this problem please sir solution
remove the battery when unplugged, that's probably the only solution…
How to set cut off voltage p2 & how to set low battery cut off voltage p1 please tell me sir
Please see the second comment from top.
p1 & p2 is variable resistor in 1st diagram??? I will use 3.7v 1a (Sunca match box size battery) battery to this circuit. so what fixed resister I have to use in place of p1 & p2??
p1, p2 will need to be practically experimented a lot to learn about the required exact fixed value replacement…
dear i have a circuit with birthday tone but how can i convert it as a calling bell?
dear I'll post the an amplifier circuit soon which you can use with the tune for implementing a door bell.
dear i need temperature controlled AC Fan Dimmer circuit and Birthday song tone Calling Bell circuit diagram.do u have this pleas share it.
dear, I have one related circuit posted below:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2013/01/automatic-temperatureclimate-controlled.html
the birthday song tone calling bell can also be designed but first you'll have to procure the "birthday" tune COB (chip on board) without which the song cannot be implemented.
Ok sir. ill check on breadboard first. Another thing, how do i change the output voltage to 1.5v instead 3.7v? as i want to run a 1.5v (150mA approx) dc motor instead LED.How may i do that?
add 3 more diodes in series after 7805 while charging the 1.5V batt
a 10 ohm will affect and reduce current to the load, using 3 diodes will keep current intact, but reduce volts to the preferred limit.
sir, if I use 1.5v battery, then what's need to be changed? and on 3.7v battery, you told to use 3 diode in series. Why not a simple 10 ohm resistance? will you kindly explain?
for changing the output to 1.5V you can either change the battery to 1.5V or use 3 nos 1n4007 diodes in series with the output positive
Dear sir, what will be the input voltage? as there is a 7805, i need more then 5v for that, right? but as schematic, it says to use 5v cell phone charger.what to do?
Please help!
Thanks.
since D2 is introduced, therefore only one diode at the emitter of T7 is sufficient, no need of two diodes here.
before designing a PCB I would recommend to test it out over a general purpose board for a trial and verification.
Oh i see. i didnt know that. 🙂 thanks for the prompt reply. I am designing a pcb of this schematic. Another thing i don't understand. On 3rd schematic, from the collector of T6 toward emitter of T7, it is shown to use 2 pcs of diode, but shows only one. do i need to add 2 diode parallel or serial to there?
Thanks.
Dear white dragon, a cellphone charger will normally have a slightly higher voltage than 5V, so it's OK to use a cell phone charger as the input, the 7805 is only for ensuring that the li-ion cell does not get an over voltage due to a wrong high voltage input
hi swagtam,
i want to ask u that same configuration can be use for 12v battery and 12v charger application….???
…7805 will need to be removed, and a precise 14V will need to be applied at the emitter of T6
hi jignesh, yes the above same circuit can be used for 12V batts also
bro is ur last updated circuit has overcome all of it's drawback? did u test it practically the updated circuit?
bro i haven't tested it but it looks perfect because most of the issues have been corrected in the last design and it should work as proposed if it's done exactly as shown.
The reason why i am skipping the series config. is that if an LED fails in a branch all the LEDs associated with that LED in that particular branch will be turned off affecting the overall brightness considerably
Today all LED lamps depend and use series LED configuration, some street lights even use 50 LEDs in series. Good quality LEDs will never fail no matter how these are configured, as long as everything's done as per the specs.
Sir,
I need a simple LED light circuit to fit inside a car….
I am using 10 no.s of white LEDs… The LEDs are connected in parallel for maximum efficiency… So 10 parallel connections are there… Power for the bank is taken from the Car battery voltage… I need to drop a maximum of 600 mA from the source ( 60 mA for each LED ) for maximum brightness….
By calculations i have found the following ;
Resistance needed for a single LED to draw a current of 60 mA is:
( 12 – 3.1 ) / 0.06 = 148.33 ohms
Power rating of that resistance :
( 12 – 3.1 ) * 0.06 = 0.534 W
150 ohm 1W resistance can be safely used…
So 10 no.s of such resistances have to be used… The main drawback of this config. is, more of the board space is getting utilized.
Now i am gonna chose for a simplest design which uses only one main resistance instead of placing separate limiting resistances for each LEDs…
So
The total current required = 600 mA = 0.6 A
Voltage = 12V – 3.1V = 8.9 V
So R = 8.9 / 0.6 = 14.833 ohm
Power rating of the resistance = 8.9 * 0.6 = 5.34 W
Are my calculations correct sir ??
I need your valuable comments on these
Arun, series connection gives more efficient results for LEDs, make two led strings with 3 leds in series on each string, and connect them in parallel.
the series resistor on each string would be then:
12 – 9.9/.06 = 35 ohms, 1/4 watt
Sir,
Sorry for disturbing you much…
All the problems facing by me are due to my carelessness while making out the circuit on BB…
I got the result of the above circuit in a fruitful way so that i can proceed further…
Hope you will understand my lack of time in concentrating much on the electronics due to a lot of works related to my profession to be completed …
Also expecting your valuable help in future projects that i am planning to do..
Thank you sir
Sure Arun, thanks! and keep posting.
Sir,
On checking today,
the diagram i have sent to you via email, when assembled on the bread board, acts as the same in the VERO board..
The Battery full indicator illuminates even on power failure… also the following points were noted
– Battery full voltage is 4.7 V
(1).
the Base of T7 gets voltage about 6.4 V when a 7.0 V charging source ( to charge the 4 V 1000 Ah battery taken from the mosquito bat ) source is used, thereby the LED bank connected between its collector and ground is not active…
but when source is disconnected ( power failure ) the base voltage is getting reduced only to 3.8 V not to zero, even-though the LED bank begins to illuminate
(2).
The battery full indicator LED continues illuminating even after power failure
(3).
Correct adjustment of Higher voltage cut of can't be achieved
(4).
Even if the higher voltage cut off is achieved, the charging voltage available for the battery doesn't becomes zero..
I am expecting better solutions for the mentioned problems in the above points
Arun, others have also tried the above circuit they are quite satisfied with it, I am not sure why you are facing so many issues.
Anyway here are the answers:
"Battery full" LED will stay illuminated because it's connected with the battery line, so it's fine, you can eliminate this LEd entirely and just keep the red and green LEd for the indications.
1) This case is also normal, D2 is dropping the 7V to 6.4V, however despite my of repeated suggestions you have not used a 7805 IC that means you will get all the wrong and dangerous results while the battery gets fully charged.
On power failure T6 gets activated via R7 that's why you see 3.8V at its base, it's due to battery voltage minus the 3.8V which could be 0.6V, which is exactly what a BJT needs to conduct.
2) i have answered this above.
3) This is because you have not used 7805 IC and did not take care about making the emitter of T6 exactly equal to the full charge level of the battery.
4) the answer is same as above
bro ur given last circuit is overcome all the drawback of over charge cut off feature which i have faced during build it?
…sorry the above recommendation is not correct, rather another diode needs to be added between the emitter of T6 and the base of T7 so that the battery voltage does not reach the emitter of T6 during backup.
Thanks for the feedback bro, that's great… a small additional refinement could make it more perfect, the emitter of T6 needs to be shifted to the anode of D2 from its existing position, this will make it more reliable in my opinion.
Hi Pro! I have done this circuit and it works quite well with the charger plugged in and cut, even with a low battery saver mode also works well. I changed T7 with TIP127 to control parallel 10Led 1w, however when I measure the voltage at the base of the LED light is getting 2.8V, this can happen due to too many connections I Led?. This is my 2nd T6 is used to charge controller TIP127, however after the last TIP127 voltage has been reduced from 5.1V down to 3.96v, so the pressure drop due to TIP127 this?. I tried removing T6 and check the charging mode and charging cut still works well. So according to Pro then need to add back to T6?. I checked voltage charger when the battery is not connected 4.4. I have combined this circuit with controller enabling / disabling of IR and used more direct mode without batteries. Looking forward to the comments of Pro to help achieve the best performance circuits. Thank Pro!
Thanks Truong for improving the design, I appreciate your efforts.
I hope your suggestions will help the interested viewers to learn and modify the circuit as per their personal applications.
TIP127 didn't make any difference
remove the battery and check the voltage across its collector and ground, it should be 4.2V and the current should be minimum 500mA, if these are satisfied then your batt will get correctly charged.
But still i am facing a low charging current problem… The 1000 mAh battery doesn't get the minimum chaging current of 100 mA, only 56 mA maximum is available…
WHAT 2 DO SIR ????
did you use TIP127 for T7?
Finally i got it Sir. I have included the LDR dark sensor portion to the last diagram…. I have sent the altered diagram to your hitman inbox. Plz check it sir.
Now..can u suggest a suitable and efficient method to adjust the brightness of LEDs in that circuit ?
OK thanks! simply add a 10K pot across base of T7 and battery positive for the dimming feature
Sir,
Can you provide a dark sensor which can be used with the last schematics such that the emergency light should only be turned on during night time..
The dark sensor given in the below schematics is not working since the collector voltage of the BC557 in the DARK SENSOR section doesn't become zero when the LDR faces darkness ( i have confirmed it by testing it many times )..
2.bp.blogspot.com/-SE0yn6ovpbE/Tyu6Bf2vsLI/AAAAAAAAA10/fKymq5Xk2So/s320/emergency.png
Plz help me to solve this by obtaining zero volt at the base of T7 when darkness is detected.
…OK sorry, I slightly misunderstood you question.
At complete darkness any good LDR resistance will reach in Megaohms.
With 100k across its base/positive, a resistance in Megaohms across its base/ground will have no effect on the BC557 so how can it keep conducting??
Check the base voltage of BC557 at this position if it doesn't get equal to the battery voltage would indicate a faulty BC557.
Arun, you should first learn how PNP devices work. The shown circuit will definitely work
In the given link, the collector of BC557 should become equal to the battery voltage in order to shut off T1.
The LDR should get sufficient light to turn off T1, or may be you can try using another BC557 to make a Darlington configuration for increasing sensitivity.
Sir i have sent the mail to your hitman inbox
Hellow sir in the circuit about which i was discussing the problem stated in the last comment, the problem persists even after many trial and errors
Here i am again giving the direct link to the schematics
4.bp.blogspot.com/-N7x3_I8Ky4s/U6cC7ipSmwI/AAAAAAAAHUo/jZ1znlwGEI0/s1600/li-ion+battery+charger+circuit.png
The LEDs associated with the high voltage cut off section ( either charging LED or full charging indicator LED ) continues to blink even after power failure ( or retains its state as they were before the power failure occurs ).
On close examining the circuit i have reached to some conclusions… I am giving those here…. Plz give your valuable opinions about these..
1).
Since the diode at the collector of T6 has been removed, the battery voltage during power failure becomes available at this terminal causing an emitter voltage of T6 ( about 2.6 V to 3.0 V for battery full voltage ) .. That emitter voltage is being utilized by the Over voltage protection circuit along with the battery voltage ( by the 47 K pot )… This may be the real reason for those LEDs to illuminate even after power failure….
I could found this by testing the LEAD terminals of T6 and the problem was solved by placind the diode D3 as before.
(2).
Some voltage will also be present as in the first case by shorting the base of the LED driving transistor T7 directly to the voltage rail ( in which the voltage from the mobile charger arrives during charging phase )… So i have used a diode in place of the actual connection with cathode pointed to the base of T7 and anode to the above voltage rail..
The above said two modifications solved the issue…
Now the LEDs ( which are causing the problem ) do not illuminate during power failure..
Check your hitman inbox sir… I have send the altered diagram to it…
Hoping your reply soon
your point 2) modification would be also preventing T7 emitter/base battery voltage from reaching T6 emitter, correcting the discussed issue
…I'll check my email ID soon and post the corrected diagram here for others to view…thanks
Hello Arun,
Thanks for the detailed assessment!
What you have suggested in point 1) is strange because in a PNP device voltage will "flow" from emitter to base/collector, never in the opposite direction, therefore the diode at the collector shouldn't make much of difference.
However your 2) point makes sense wherein I am assuming that you have shifted the emitter of T6 to the anode of D2 from the existing cathode of D2, right?
The above correction would be preventing a leakage voltage from T3 collector to reach the emitter of T6 and perhaps this could have been the real issue.
Try removing the T6 collector diode with your 2) suggestion in place, and see if it reverts to the issue or sustains the present good condition.
Hai sir,
In the circuit given in the below link, the Charging LED ( green ) illuminates even during power failure….
4.bp.blogspot.com/-N7x3_I8Ky4s/U6cC7ipSmwI/AAAAAAAAHUo/jZ1znlwGEI0/s1600/li-ion+battery+charger+circuit.png
I have placed a 4.7V zener in series with the Green LED with proper position, which solved the issue.
Green LED turned off when power failure occured.
But a new problem arised that, the charging current of the battery becomes very less compared to the previous case..
COULD U PLZ SUGGEST A BETTER REMEDY FOR THIS ??
….you can try the last circuit given in the following link, for achieving a guaranteed and a reliable response:
https://www.homemade-circuits.com/2013/12/usb-automatic-li-ion-battery-charger.html
Hi Arun, a zener diode is not required, and there's no way the green LED can illuminate with the input supply switched OFF, because if the emitter of T6 has no voltage from where will the green LED receive power? The battery voltage cannot pass through collector of T6 to the green LED, right? so then from where could the green LED be getting the power if there's no input supply at the emitter of T6?
You can try disconnecting different links that may be related to the green LED to find the leakage path for troubleshooting the issue.
Sir i am using two unknown rechargeable batteries taken from two broken MOSQUITO BATS….
On searching the internet i found that they might be 4V 1000 mAH batteries.
One of the battery shows abotu 4.3V and the other one shows 4.1 V..
(1). So what do you think about the MAXIMUM CHARGING VOLTAGE and MINIMUM
CHARGING CURRENT of these batteries ?
(2). Will the criterion 1/10Ah holds the same for this case so that the parallel config. of these
batteries require 200 mA current as minimum charging current ?
(3). What config. will be most preferable here ? A Parallel config. or a Series one ?
(4). What z about the maximum charging voltage ?
My requirement is to make the present circuit able to provide suitable charging levels ( voltage and current ) to the battery bank and the brightness of the LEDs ( 10 no.s ) should be high enough to make it useful at night….
On inspecting the working of the present circuit, i came to know that, the charging current supplied by the collector terminal of the T6 is only about 15 to 30 mA which is too low ..
Also the discharging current is also less so that more than one LEDs can't be used instead of the single one…..
Hope you will suggest better remedies to solve all these issues….
neither series is good nor parallel, ideally you should charge them separately, but parallel config is better than series according to me.
1/10th rate will be good if the the batts are Ni-CD type.
Arun,
the full charge voltage for most batteries and in your case also would be 16 to 18% of the actual battery voltage rating, so for 4V it would be around 4.8V. Similarly the lower may be calculated as 12% less than the actual battery rating.
The charging current in the above design can be increased by changing the 2N2907 with TIP127, this will significantly improve the current specs of the design.
Sir,
How to use this circuit to operate on set of 10 white LEDs ?
Can you plz check your hitman inbox Sir…
I have sent a mail to it.
Hi Arun, if it's with 3.7V, the circuit would be the same as above.
Sir,
i have tune the P1 which is working perfectly.i have tested it.but the problem is that the 1 watt led doesnot off. emitter and the collector of the bc557 is connected with each other as mentioned in all three diagram.
i have just replace the connection of emittter to the positive of the battery.and it is working perfectly means it cutoff the 1 watt led when the red led glows.
sir i have a question about p2.When i tune it in that position when the green led is comming to be off and the green is in starting to glow but it does not works it remain in this condition even i connect a full charged batt or a weaker once or the charger.
When i connect full charged batt and adjust the p2 when the blue led is glowing (just when it start glowing)and then replace the batt with weaker batt ,the blue led is still glowing even when i connect the charger.Then how to set P2??????
Syed, yes you are correct, T3 emitter should be connected to the battery positive for the required LED glow cut-off, I misunderstood your previous comment, I thought you were referring to T6.
As for the P2 high voltage cut-off setting, when you connect a new battery you will need to switch off the whole circuit, then connect the new battery and then switch ON again for initiating the actions afresh….if you don't switch OFF the circuit the transistors will be latched on to the previous conditions due to their high hysteresis characteristics.
Thanks Sir you have clear my all doubt, now i will tune the p2 and come up with positive result.
Thank you Syed for the updates, that's interesting.
the connection of BC557 emitter to batt positive is valid and looks perfect but R5 should work even in the shown position.
But anyway, if it's working for you let's take it in that way.
I'll update the modified diagram soon…
Sir,
The circuit is working with its all features.
I have make two changes.
1) i have connect the emitter of bc557 directly to the battery.
2)i have replace the connection of R5(1k) to the positive of battery.
That all ,the circuit is working..
sure, thanks!
sir i think that the emitter of bc557 should be connected to the positive of the battery to sense through the for cut off. Please describe the function of T4 and T5 so i can accurately adjust the P2.
OK now i got your point, I misunderstood T3 with T6, you were referring to T3 and I mistook it to be T6….you are right T3 emitter must be connected with the battery positive for the cut off, I'll make the corrections soon.
thanks
emitter of T6 is connected with the battery via its own collector. as soon as a discharged battery is connected, the emitter potential will drop and come down to the battery voltage level.
P2 is set so thst T4 just begins conducting at around 4.1V, when this happens T5 conduction gets interrupted since its base begins getting grounded via T4 collector/emitter.
With T5 not conducting, T6 is unable to receive the negative potential via T5 collector/emitter, and therefore T6 now begins getting choked and soon stops conducting….the battery thus stops receiving the charging voltage at around 4.2V
and also how to set the lower cut off limit and upper limit accurately… On tweaking the pots associated with each section, only a gradual change in detection of voltage has been noted, not an abrupt change which means that the higher cut off during charging and the lower cut off during discharging occurs gradually ?
yes you will a gradual change not a sudden change because these are crude BJT stages not opamp stages.
an opamp circuit such as a LM358 circuit can be used for a snappy response….
a relay can also be used for the same but 3V to 5V relays are not easily available and will make the circuit costlier..
Sir in this circuit when i am using a 5.0 V battery ( taken from a broken mosquito bat ), only 3.58 V to 4.0 V is available at the collector of T6 ( positive terminal to The LED lamp )…
What to do sir ?
Also..
what are the minimum cut off voltage and maximum cut off limit of such a battery taken from the Mosquito bat ? No signs of voltage or current written on the surface of the battery
Arun, in the last circuit, I have removed the diode at the collector of T6 did you remove it in your circuit?
the minimum cut off could be within 3.7 and 3.5V and the upper cut off from 4 to 4,2V for a 3.7V Li-on battery
Sir, i will change my circuit according to new design(3rd Circuit).
Do you have made this circuit.This one is a best emergency light with all features.Every one want to made this. Please verify that circuit practically.
No I did not check it so far, but as you can see everything's very basic and very tight, there's no space for any fault now, especially after adding the 7805 now you don't have to worry about the input voltage level and the voltage corrections at the emitter of T6.
Do it exactly as per the last diagram, it will surely produce the mentioned results, but the cut-offs may not be as sharp as an IC circuit would do, because this circuit is crude compared to an IC circuit.
Sir. I want to ask about the adjustment of P1 and P1 .
When i connect a weak battery and adjust the P1 the red led(low batt) does not glow at any point.i have the reduced the value of the resistor connected with Low battery led.but it was not glowing and when i connect the charger it glows..
if the charger has output of 9 or 12v volts, will it effect the components?
For P2 when i connect full charge battery and charger to adjust, and after adjusting it in that position when the Blue led(full batt) glows i change the battery with weaker once but the led is still glowing.. (O_o) .i have check all the connection these are perfect..
Please describe the adjustment of P1 and P2 .
Syed, remove the diode D5, it's dropping 0.6V and making it difficult for the LED to glow at 3V.
the voltage across emitter/ground of T6 (in the last diagram) from the adapter should be exactly equal to the full charge specification. this must be first confirmed without connecting any battery. for example if you are using a 4V battery, amke sure the emitter of T6 shows 4.4V initially without any battery connected…9V or 12V is too high
The amp of the adapter should be 1/2 of the connected battery AH. for 1.2AH, the input amp should not be more than 500mA
also make all the 33k resistors to 10K for better response
All these things should be confirmed otherwise the circuit will keep producing wrong results.
Ok sir,
but i am in trouble with P1, But i have adjusted P2 ..
i have seen the above the comment for adjusting this but when i attach a weak battery of about 3.0 volts and adjust the P1 the Red Led does not glow properly but it glow.and my Main Led(600mA) does not Off..
Syed the setting procedures are very easy, without connecting any battery feed a 3.6V directly at the emitter of T6 through a variable power supply, now adjust P1 such that the red LED just begins to light up.
Next, increase the above voltage to around 4.2V directly at the emitter of T6.
Now adjust P2 until the base LED of T6 just shuts off.
your setting up procedure is complete.
disconnect the variable power supply and connect a phone charger to the input of 7805, connect the desired battery for getting the intended automatic cut off actions as per the above settings.
Sir how to set the P1 and P2.
i have set according to above comments but not successfully set it.Please explain it using multimeter..
Ok sir i will try it.
…OK got it now, you mean to say at low voltage, the emergency 1 watt LED lamp does not shut off fully
what did you use for R4?
use 1k resistor for R4 and check the response
You can change the series 10k resistor to 1K and see the response, it should brighten up the LED…
sorry, i could not understand your last question…." but it glow.and my Main Led(600mA) does not Off".
Hello sir i have made this circuit..
i want to ask that the circuit will perform well on this configuration.
i have used tip127 so can i use led upto 5a??but i am using led of 0.6a with 4v 1.2a battery..Battery is not Li-ion battery.
Hello Syed, yes it will work, but with a 600mA LEd your battery will become flat quickly, you will need a minimum 4AH battery for getting around 3 to 4 hour backup