#143000

You diagram at the top of the page seems to have the same kind of chip (I think). All the “drain” pins are 0 ohms in between and the same with the source pins. I can’t quite follow where/what the input pins are and what are output. I’d like to measure and see if I’m getting anything through the chip. What should I be seeing where if the chip is the same pinout as the one about.

Also, just to clarify, I believe that blue circle part is a capacitor, but is there anything special about it? I’m getting about 170vdc on one side of it from the – side of the bridge circuit and nothing on the other.

I appreciate your help with this. I’ve contacted the distributer of the bulb and asked about getting info on the chip.

#143004

The image at the top has a VIPER22A IC which is explained in the article, your chip is completely different, all chips have different and unique specifications, they can never be similar with their functioning and pinouts.

If the blue one is a capacitor then there’s nothing special about it, a capacitor is a capacitor after all.

#142989

Here are the pictures again with some more.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/W6bdSJ31NhPecLpf9

As I said the chip says ATC9307E, but I can’t find a datasheet.

Author
#142998

OK thanks for the information and the images. I also tried to find the datasheet but could not find any information about this IC, so it seems there’s no possibility of getting a replacement.

#142971

The only vulnerable parts (to me) are that chip and the diode at the DC end. I’m getting DC out from the rectifier from main AC. I’m getting some voltages around the chip, but not knowing the chip, I’m not sure where to go from there. The capacitors “look” ok. Not bubbled.

Author
#142974

Yes the IC is the most vulnerable part, and this could be replaced for verifying the working of the SMPS. However, if you do not have the number of the chip printed on the chip, then it would be impossible to find a new replacement, because all ICs have different numbers and pinout specifications

#142970

I have a multimeter and an oscilloscope. I’m lost when I get to that chip though. If you can get me around there, that would help. It starts with a bridge rectifier coming through a fuseable resister from the mains and then heads over to that chip and that transformer, but I don’t understand the purpose of the transformer after the rectifier circuit.

Author
#142973

The image you sent is no longer available. I guess the transformer after the bridge could be a filter or a choke. The other bigger transformer is the main SMPS transformer.

#142963

Ok, so perhaps maybe I should approach this from a different direction. I have several of these bulbs and the power supplies are going bad so I wanted to come up with a better solution. Maybe if you could have a look at the power supply board you could help me fix and repair them. They are using a chip ATC9307E 4-CMAP03 that I can’t find any info on. It’s an 8 pin chip. Here’s a link to photos of the power board. https://photos.app.goo.gl/xvJNcDkahobfd9pf8 I appreciate any help you can give me on troubleshooting as these bulbs were $14 each and I have like 5 of them that have gone bad.

Author
#142968

Sorry, I guess it can be extremely difficult to troubleshoot just by looking at the images. It will require a thorough practical testing using meters to actually understand the fault.

#142844

120v input -> 16v @ 1.2 (or better the leds all on are about 1 amp. It claims to be a 10w bulb but that is only using some LEDs and I’d like to light them all). The led board has the ESP8266 mounted on it with some step down to 3.2v. The board itself has an input of 16v.

#142843

I should have mentioned it needs to fit in the bulb housing so the smaller the better

#142842

I need to make 4 of them so something cheap! 😉

#142841

I this is a little old, but I found it looking for help. I want to make a small 16v 1.2a led driver for a bulb that uses an ESP8266. I had a quick look through but I’m not all that sure how to increase current. I would appreciate your help very much.

Author
#142852

For building a 120 V to 16 V 1 amp supply you will need an SMPS circuit which can be quite complex for any newcomer. So I would suggest you to buy a ready-made SMPS module which can be used to convert 120V AC into 16 V 1 amp DC for your ESP8266. By the way I cannot figure out how ESP8266 can be related to an LED driver. ESP8266 is Wifi IC.

#142872

The Esp8266 is part of the LED board, but yes, I agree. The problem I’ve had is locating a module small enough to fit in the bulb.

Author
#142879

I understand, however, unfortunately a 16 V 1 amp power supply cannot be small, and it has to an SMPS.

#132636

Sir,
Thank you for the last assistance all so very well now BUT!!! I need to build starting today a 150 1watt NOT 5mm Leds but 1 watt leds for my garage bench top light this is for above my head at my workbench in the garage what circuit are you able to provide me and as usual, I will wait for your reply and again. thank you inhadvance.
Dr.Chris.

Author
#132645

Hello Dr. Chris, no problem! I can help you to build it, but before that please let me know what type of power supply do you intend to use.
I would recommend either an SMPS power supply or transformer based power supply.
Please let me know your opinion on this.

#131297

HI,
I need to power a 16Watt 3 in 1 LED Light. It has about 180 LED connected in series. The 3 in 1 is basically means warm, bright and combination of warm bright light. Each LED uses approx. about 3V DC
I require a circuit wherein:
a. I can power the LED in three different option when I press a switch
b. Using PWM to control the dimming (brightness) of the LED.
I want to build this circuit and understand the working of constant current and how does the PWM affects the circuit. Am not looking at an off the shelf driver.
Kindly advise
Thanks

Author
#131299

Hi, 180 LEDs in series at 3V each will require 180 x 3 = 540V DC for operating, which looks impossible to achieve. Are you sure they need to be connected in series?

#106939

Hi there! I have read quite some useful information here, thank you for that! I noted that most people use your designs to power up leds. But what if I wanted a power supply for various hobby projects that can operate between 0 to 20 volts with a maximum current of around 300mA. Would you suggest to go for a transformerless power supply? Or is the current demand too high? I read 100mA is about the max but at the same time I am reading about improved designs on your page which seem able to output a lot more.

Author
#106953

Hi, for a universal variable power supply you can build an LM317 based power supply circuit. It can provide a maximum current of 1 amp. Transformerless power supplies can be dangerous since they are not isolated from mains AC.

How to Use LM317 for Making a Variable Power Supply Circuit

#107000

I see, thank you for the link. It is Interesting to read how you worked around the lm317 1.5A limit and a switch to choose between half the supply voltage but double the current.

Author
#107022

Glad you liked it…hope it works for you!

#87573

i need 130v@70ma cc with input 230vac +-15% Isolated Or Non-isolated. Pl give design

Author
#87594

220V to 130 V DC LED driver, constnt current

CAUTION: CIRCUIT IS NOT ISOLATED FROM MAINS AC….

#104565

Hello Sir,
I need a circuit in which input should be constant i.e110v and wattage should be 1w to 5w changing.
Output voltage 6v to 12v dc efficiency 85% and pf >0.9

Author
#104575

Hello Shubhankar,

you can try the concept explained in the above article, it is almost exactly as per the required specifications. However, the above circuit is not isolated from AC mains, and is limited to max 1 watt

#104665

ok sir thankyou so much.
can you just tell me the IC that i can use for multipurpose use of 1w to 5w

Author
#104669

You are welcome Shubahankar, you can try building the circuits explained in the following article and use it for your LED

https://www.homemade-circuits.com/how-to-make-simple-12-v-1-amp-switch/

#87622

thanks for reply.
if possible pl give same for isolated type also with PSR mathode.

#85949

Hello Swagatam.

First of all, thanks a lot for these circuits in this article.

I would like to know if you consider this LED driver built with VIPer22A is more efficient than the one built with TPS92314A as shown in your article https://www.homemade-circuits.com/7-watt-led-driver-smps-circuit/. From the datasheet that you shared for VIPer22A seems that the driver is around 75% efficient where this data is not available in your article for the driver with TPS92314A. Basically, my requirement is to select one driver which should be as power efficient as possible as I am working on energy optimisation in our apartment, and hence I would appreciate if you suggest a best driver for 5 watt (5 number of 1 watt LED connected in series) drawing around 300-350 mA current at 16 volt approximately. Secondly, I realised that IC TPS92314A is not available as spare in online if I am not mistaken.

Please suggest.

Author
#85984

Thank you Pradip, the 7 watt LED driver circuit explained should be more efficient than the VIPer circuit since the design works with a non isolated inductor, and has an external MoSFET buck driver.

However, instead of building these complex SMPS circuits, I would recommend you to purchase any good quality 12 V 2 amp SMPS from the market, and connect 6nos of 1watt LEDs in two rows of 3 series strings. You can put LM317 current limiters in series with each of these strings externally. to ensure a current controlled supply for the LEDs

IC TPS92314A can be purchased from any online store

#85917

sir, This seems to be great. But Sir I am a lay man. I need a driver 0.5 to1 wat for a 3.5 volt 5 mm ,or 8 mm LED , to be hung on photos etc. I need `50 drivers. if u know any one pl mail me. I am doing this as a hobby,

Author
#85923

Hello Rajesh, you can use the following concept for your requirement

https://www.homemade-circuits.com/simple-220v-smps-buck-converter-circuit/

Please note that the circuit is not isolated and is dangerous to touch in open and powered condition

#78610

dear sir, do you have any circuit for 2 or 3 nos 1 watt leds alternate fading on and off. request instructions. thank you.

Author
#78612

Jayanath, you can try this
1 watt led fading circuits

R1, R4 = 680 Ω
R2, R3 = 18K
C1 = 100 μF
C2 = 100 μF
T1, T2 = BC547

For fading effect you can optimize the base resistors and capacitor at the base of TIP122

#78641

ok sir thanks. again thanks for the early reply.

#69958

Hello sir
Every LED TV technicians badly need a testing device called “LED Back Light Checker” which costs around 1000/- in local markets. if you publish a circuit diagram of this device it will be very useful to them.

Author
#69974

Thanks Shanavas, I’ll investigate the concept, and if feasible I’ll create an article on this.

#69458

Hello sir,
How can I use 1.0k, 250 MEF capacitor to design a transformerless portable LED light of 12 leds and 230 vac

Author
#69466

Hello Thiter, 250uF cannot be used in a transformerless power supply for LEDs

#67876

Thanks again

Author
#90714

Dear Thivanka, you will need to add separate resistors on each of the 64 LED string. The formula is:

R = Supply DC – Total FWD drop across the 64 LEDs / LED current of the string

use the above formula for all the strings, after that you can join all those strings in parallel

#90700

Dear sir,
64 , 5mm leds connected in seris rated 3.2v @20mA (2 strings)
And 64 leds rated 2.8 @ 20mA (3strings)
I need to conect all of this 5 strings.can u pls help me with how to modify or use your ckt to connect these.strings.

Author
#67873

OK, understood, you can replace it with a 10uF/400V

Author
#67872

Thank you, Glad you liked it.

Are you referring to the 105/400V cap. It is not too big. A 105/400V will produce 50 mA, lower values will produce even lower current, may not be suitable. In the 4rth MOSFET circuit you can add any number of LEDs up to 90 in series, and they all will light up with equal brightness. You just have to adjust the pot accordingly for getting the required brightens.

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