#203359

I made a bridge rectifier for each NE555 isolating the positive and negative power supply to be only through a bridge. (very fiddly) Connecting a probe to any of the other NE555 earth’s set off the LED diode. I need it to only toggle in the circuit to which the probe belonged. What does work is a separate 9v battery for each NE555 circuit. A little wasteful with batteries but at least I can get the project to work

#203374

Assuming you made the following type of circuit, 5 of these…. operated with a common 9V supply, in that case the output results for each of these circuits will be perfectly independent and and complementing their relevant input probe detections:
555 continuity tester circuit
Detecting a continuity on one 555 probe just cannot trigger the LED output of the other adjacent 555 circuits….because the outputs of each individual 555 circuit solely depends on its very own pin2 detection.

#203643

My goal is to test multiple connections so that there is a connection but it goes to the right place.
One probe will not trigger another circuit’s LED. however the problem is ground. A probe from any of the five circuits will trigger its LED if touched on any of the other circuit’s earths.
This is important for an application that strives to test connections that have been made but also to the right destination.
For example suppose there are only two connection (rather than 5) that we wish to test. A correct connections is A->B and C->D with independent NE555 circuits to test A and C. Suppose an incorrect connection is made A->D, C->B. In that case a test on A should not trigger and LED but it does. A probe to A will trigger the LED because it shares and earth with the C-D connection and also visa versa.
If each circuit is wired with an independent 9v battery it all works.

Thew next step would be to run the LED outputs to a binary comparator testing that all the continuities are “on”. Unfortunately the comparator will have to have an earth that recognises a binary 1 from each NE555 circuits. …..and the problem re-establishes itself.

Author
#203653

OK, in that case you can try isolated power supply modules like the B1215S-2W, and also use CMOS version of the 555 like the LMC555 or the 7555.

#167499

Hi, Can #6 above accurately test a diode IN CIRCUIT?

Thanks!

Author
#167507

Hi, From the description it seems it can do the job, however since I have not tested it practically i cannot confirm the results accurately.

#146847

when designing and building your own continuity testers, what results do you get if lets say your previous continuity testers were unable to test electric connections

Author
#146849

All the above continuity testers are designed to do the same thing, that is detect a continuity in an electronic or electrical circuit. Some testers may not be too accurate and may read low resistances as a continuity, whereas others may be more accurate and may be able to differentiate between a low resistance and continuity….

#146852

so how would you conclude about continuity testers

Author
#146883

Continuity tester circuit can be used to check for a continuity in circuits, which can be through jumpers, diodes, transistors, inductors etc.

#112047

I think another way to say this is that the tester I have in mind would allow a sender to be in series with another wire which is in series with the remote LED indicator/beeper unit which is in series with a return wire back to the sender (which has the battery). A commercial version exists, but it is annoying to purchase repeatedly because it has no fuse protection against outside overvoltage (eg 12V or 120V external voltage) when accidentally connected to live circuit.

Author
#112062

I agree, this can be perhaps prevented through a high wattage series resistor.

#112031

Thanks for these clear Circuit Tester circuits.
Special request: Can you please add a schematic for incorporating two additional features:
1) A remote indicator that prove not only continuity from point A to point B, but also that the circuit electricity is going thru point C and point D at the other end of two wires (for example). This feature is invaluable in testing long circuits with only one person. Buzzer/LED or both. Red or Green for normal or crossed polarity.
2) Even more important is a way to test for any voltage on the circuit and temporarily disable the tester if there is 12V or 120V live current on what you thought was turned off.
There appears to be no commercial product with these features and it would be fantastic to be able to build one better than commercially available.

Author
#112044

Glad you liked the circuits, however which points are C and D that you are referring to? I cannot see any C and D points in the diagrams?
2) I don’t think the above circuits must be used with any wires that may be associated with some voltage source…the ideas are specifically for wires that are completely isolated from a voltage source.

#112046

Sorry, the Point C and Point D were hypothetical and not shown in any of your diagrams. What I meant was something like the Southwire 40040S which has to parts:
1) A 9V battery powered ‘sender’ with two alligator tip leads to connect to a couple of wires at one end of a vehicle for example. Sender has LED’s to signal connection. They light up and beeps if the two leads on the sender are connected directly together.
2) A Remote section, also with two alligator clip leads that connect to the other ends of the same two wires in #1 above, but too far away for one person to be both places. So you connect the remote two leads on the far-away ends of the two wires, and if they complete a circuit, both sender (#1) and remote (#2) light up and beep. Green if black to black, red to red, and Red if reversed polarity.

In brief, I’m looking for away to check continuity of two different wires at the same time AND verify that the continuity is not from a short-to-ground on the vehicle somewhere between the near and far ends of the two wires.

The remote is basically an LED / Beeper unit that allows the main sender (powered by 9V battery) to verify that its power is going all the way to the end and back. If there is a short-to-chassis-ground somewhere in between, the sender will light and beep, but the remote unit LED will obviously not see any power because the electricity is taking a ‘shortcut’ and so the remote LED’s wont light.

The commercial version mentioned above is very useful for a one-man circuit testing team! BUT it has a real problem because if you ever forget and connect it to a live 12V circuit, the remote LED’s blow instantly and the $30.00 device is garbage! 🙁

I wish I could upload a schematic to make this clearer but please feel free to ask more if you this doesn’t make sense. I wish I knew how to build something like this with a fuse or circuit breaker to protect against both 12V and 120V (or 240V?) accidental voltage.

Author
#112061

Thank you for the detailed explanation… I understood the working and also confirmed the same through a relevant video. However the functioning looks quite tricky, and I am unable to figure out a circuit with the exact specifications.

In my design the sender will always illuminate a green LED for continuity. If the polarity does not match between the sender and the remote unit, then the sender will illuminate green LED, and the remote unit will illuminate red LED. If the polarity matches then both the sender and the remote will illuminate greens LEDs.

The flashing thing can be included in the design, but again the specs will be slightly different. In my design both the units will flash their LEDs together.

The above design is actually extremely simple and I think it fulfills the basic requirement as specified by you.

The high voltage could be avoided through a series resistor or a capacitor

Let me know if you would want to see this design.

#112086

YES! I would very much like to see your design.
For the record, the flashing adds no useful functionality and your local green, remote red solution is elegant.
What might add functionality is the resister you mentioned to protect against 12V, 120V, or 250V accidental connection (if that works). A competitor of the product I mentioned states it has a “250V, 0.5A fast blow fuse” to protect it, but it is not clear whether that fuse protects both sender and remote, or just the sender. Since I seem to blow the remote just as often as the sender, both would need to have fuses. That specification only seems to come in the cylindrical glass fuse holder form factor rather than the more modern and easier to change ATC (Automotive) style. But that’s OK if it works. Do you think such a fuse placed in series of one of the leads of both sender and remote on your proposed schematic? Or would a resistor be better.

Either way, I am anxious to see your design. To make it completely block buster, it must have enough internal voltage power supply to test circuits many meters long, but not so high as to blow sensitive automotive ECM/ECU units or ICs.

I and many other people I suspect would find your design useful. And if you ever make such a testing unit commercially available I would purchase it if it is guaranteed not to blow when accidentally connected to a live circuit.

Author
#112117

I don’t think any kind of fuse will help, since it might take just a few milliseconds for the LEDs to burn if subjected to an unprotected high voltage.
Here’s the design that I propose, with complete accidental over voltage protection:

southwire type continuity tester circuit with red, green LEDs and high voltage protected

Let me know if you have any problems understanding the circuit.

#112120

Many thanks for sharing this. If it works as described, a fantastic improvement over commercially available circuit testers. The schematic looks very clean and elegant, although because I am not an electrical engineer I make no claims to understanding the logic behind it, before I make a Digi-key order, I do have a couple of questions if I can presume to further request:

1) Is C3 100 nanoF? (the ‘n’ a bit hard to read)
2) Why is capacitor C2 white & black (compare C3) I’m presuming this is a schematic software issue but perhaps there is something I’m overlooking (25V?)
3) Does C3 have any special voltage requirement (all other C’s have documented voltage). Presume 25V OK by analogy to C2 and 9V source, but not sure if C3 serves as part of the protective accidental overvoltage protection function.

Thanks!

Author
#112128

You are welcome! Here are the answers to your questions:
1) C3 is 100 nano Farad that is equal to 0.1uF (ceramic disc)
2) C2 is supposed to be a common electrolytic capacitor which is polarized, the white side indicates the positive pin of the capacitor
3) C3 is a ceramic disc type capacitor which are rated at 50 V by default.

The remote circuit can be assumed to be fully protected, however I am not sure about the sender circuit. I think a series diode can make it more robust, here’s a revised diagram for the same:

high voltage protected continuity tested circuit with red green LEDs, and southwire type functionality

#112134

Wow! Thank you! Glad I asked about the polarized capacitor.
Very much appreciate your input and I will do my best to turn this into a very useful personal test tool. I think this makes a total of 6 circuits for this page now! I’m going to stop asking before you’ve designed it into a self driving car or something. Now to order a few parts. Thanks! 😉

Author
#112157

Sure, No problem at all, please feel free to ask further questions if you have any, and let us know if the circuit doesn’t work as required.

Author
#112118

The RED LED at the sender’s side is not required and can be removed

#112123

And a 4th question:
4) Will the 0.47 uF 400V capacitors protect against AC overvoltage, or only DC?
I don’t plan to use it around any 120V AC circuits, but in rare cases it might and I’m not sure how this circuit would protect against this.

Author
#112129

The 0.47uF/400V is supposed to limit the current to 20 mA ensuring no excess current can enter regardless of the input voltage, and regardless of whether it is AC or DC.

#106409

I want to build the continuity tester using arduino and relay, how to proceed in this

#80027

Hello sir,
I am looking to make a continuity detection for a terminal block and to alert the user when something was completely connected. I have attempted using the circuit in another article where I think you have commented with two transistors and resistors. But it took a while between when continuity is detected and when is not detected as it was a 12-9 volt source for the terminal block and it is also controlled by a MOSFET. I am looking at a solution and was wondering if a voltage divider were the LED is supposed to be that goes to the analog pin would be able to detect continuity as soon as it is connected and as soon as it is removed.
Here is the link to the other article (the schematic I am referring to is the last one with two transistors and resistors): https://www.brighthubengineering.com/diy-electronics-devices/67224-build-yourself-a-simple-continuity-tester/

Thanks for your help.

Author
#80035

Hello Navid, yes probably this can be solved with a resistive divider and an LED, but will require a supply to be fed to the terminal block through a resistor. When this voltage gets grounded via the continuity, the LED lights up

#80051

Would this work as well if the voltage would be going to an analog pin to be read as that is the goal of the circuit? Thanks for the help.

Author
#80064

That can be difficult to conform without checking the schematic on the other side

#59875

I can replace BC557 transistor into another PNP transistor
and BC547 other NPN

Author
#59880

yes that’s possible

#43471

Hi thanks for ur post. What s the voltage of cap 0.1uf

Author
#43518

Thanks Aariz, it's 50V

#37118

This circuit is really sensitive. I replaced the led with a buzzer. It even works across a 1M resistor. Can this circuit be adjusted to only buzz when resistance is of the trace to test for continuity is less than 100 ohm?

Author
#37126

the LED can be replaced with a a buzzer for getting an audible indication

Author
#37125

yes that's a valid point, to solve this you can try adding a 10k or a 100k preset whichever suits better across the base and emitter of the BC547 transistor, or parallel with the 0.1uF capacitor….then you can adjust it appropriately for acquiring the desired amount of sensitivity.

#32503

How do we reduce the sensitivity of this circuit? is it by changing the 1M resistor to a lower value?

Author
#32509

you can add a 1M pot parallel to the 0.1uF cap and use it for setting the sensitivity level.

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